Japan - the wrap up

Beautiful morning at Philosophers Path, Kyoto

Hinayu, a maiko (trainee Geiko)
 we met on the last day 

Amazing day at a Himeji Castle

Visiting Japan was like being on another planet. Everything was just that little bit different, more designed, more pleasing to the eye and more polite. I loved the juxtaposition of the modern life sitting side by side with the centuries old traditional aspects of Japanese culture.

The highlights:

• staying in a ryokan, a traditional family run inn and learning the traditions of wearing a yukata, having a sento bath, what shoes to wear when and more
• chasing cherry blossoms, I was very lucky to experience the peak of the cherry blossoms in all the cities and towns visited 
• Himeji Castle, a magnificent world heritage site perched on a hill to defend the western approach to Kyoto, one of only 12 original castles left in Japan

The surprises:

• Everyday activities are all different, from unwrapping a chocolate bar to going to the toilet, being able to follow instructions is essential.
• English is everywhere, from announcements on the train to assistants in shops, trying out some words in Japanese was lots of fun and people were very patient with me (I have been told there is less English as you get further away from the cities).
• Trains are impressive, frequent, signage is excellent, loved the Ginza line in Tokyo that even had interactive boards with useful information like where the exit points are from your carriage.
• Crowds were not as big as I expected, the streets, train stations, shops all seem to be designed to cope with the millions of people passing through each day.

In my 15 days, I took 4270 photos and a lifetime of memories. This is a country I would like to visit again.

Three firsts and a very long day

Sad to leave, but happy to be
going HOME

Osaka airport

Observation deck

Bridge for cars (top) and trains (bottom)
from mainland to airport

Statement of the year:
This fight is greatly delayed (top line)

Vending machine for towel for shower

Snuggled in

Everyone pick a bed

Dreamliner wing flexing
over Great Barrier Reef

Roar. Everyone on the shuttle bus wakes up as a boy racer screams down the highway like he is part of the Fast and Furious team. I am on my way to Kansai airport near Osaka. The airport is built on an artificial island in the middle of Osaka Bay connected to land by the longest truss bridge in the world. It was sad to leave my travel buddies and start the journey home but all good things must come to an end.

Arriving at the airport I have a plan to kill time, the first port of call is a shuttle bus to the Observation Deck. This way, that way ok the bus leaves from No.1 bus stand. Nearly there, around the big concrete pillar and the bus pulls away. Have to match the schedule no matter what. I wonder if the driver had seen me would he have waited? It's only 10 mins to the next bus so let's sit and wait. Bored now, check emails. What my flight is delayed 6 hours, oh joy, oh joy. Slight heart palpitations. Time to give myself a talking too, nothing you can do about it, go with it. But I want to be home NOW, am sure the Easter Bunny is expecting me.

Either way, lets go on and do some exploring. The observation deck bus is here I think, it says Nanski, but the guy next to me has plane pins on his cap and ejector seat memorabilia on his bag. So let’s make an educated guess and assume he is a plane spotter and see where this bus goes. Phew, now the sign has been changed to observation deck loop. I am here, there is a shop and cafe (of course) and indoor and outdoor areas with great views of the planes, landing and taking off. Plane spotters and big lenses everywhere.

Enough of that it's time to board the next bus to Rinku Premium Outlets, all the big brands at discount prices. Laid out like a resort with plantation shutters and palm trees, I think I am in the Gold Coast. Grab a few things but this is all too sterile for me, time to move on. Have noticed that the bridge has a road at the top and a train line suspended underneath so with plenty of time to kill let's catch the train back. Easy, except all the locals staring at me, maybe the tourists are meant to stick to the free buses and not mix with the locals on the train line.

Right well are you bored now, ‘cause I am. Hanging out back at the observation hall as it is way less crowded than the terminal and lots of plane spotters to watch, but even they have disappeared now as the rain in pounding down. Back to the terminal, check in, Aussies hanging around everywhere, rockstar turns up, people leave queues to get photos, security pushes everyone back, momentary excitement, now back to boredom.

Through security, shops, shops and more shops, very high end. Let's investigate how the showers work. Ok, need to change 1000 yen note into change, buy a towel from vending machine (first 1), then put yen in the shower and get hot water for 15 minutes (first 2) how civilised. Now my mission is to fill water bottle, the man is telling me I have to get on a shuttle. What, to get water? All the other Aussies are dazed and confused too. Right we need to go to our gate on the shuttle. This is where we will stay the night. Now I know why I have been sleeping on futons for 2 weeks, to toughen me up for the airport. So the third first is to sleep overnight in an airport. Finally, we board the plane, my first ride on a Dreamliner and it is the quietest flight I have ever been on, no one is talking everyone is just laying in their seats in some kind of stupor.

At the time of booking it seemed like the easiest option was to fly #jetstar out of Osaka, oh I so wish I had done the two trains back to Tokyo and flown Qantas. Currently, I am in Australia, Cairns airport and IF all goes well I will be back home, 11 hours late.

Meeting a maiko

Philosopher’s Path

My creation

The workbench

Streets of Gion are full of
interesting sights

Everyone was enjoying the sun today

This is how close we are

Captivating dance

My new friend, Hinayu

Off to her next appointment

Bye, bye Kyoto

Time to get going before the crowds descend on Philosopher’s Path. The path is alongside a canal and gets its name from Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan's most famous philosophers, who was said to practice meditation while walking this route on his daily commute to Kyoto University. Today it should be called photographers path as the only people out early are the ones with big cameras doing some serious photography. The sakura (cherry blossoms) are outstanding. This was the number one thing I wanted to do in Kyoto. Glad I made the effort to get up here early today. 

Now as with all my days I have a plan. Next is to try out a traditional Japanese craft, wood block printing. It's down this way, hmm, that's the big shrine. Think I am on the wrong side - ask google, yep. Box around and I am here. Before I know it I have an apron on and am splashing colour and trying ever so hard to line up the registration lines. 6 stages for each print and ‘ta da’ I am the proud creator of two woodblock prints.

Back out into the sunshine and it is glorious, boats are cruising on the canals, families are picnicking this really is a great time to visit. Such a special time for the locals, I have learnt that celebrating this time of year is ingrained in all Japanese. Sakura time is often linked with new beginnings, the school year, starting university or a new job. 

A detour into the craft centre, nice but not setting the world on fire. Melinda Heal’s textile work inspired by Australian nature using and adapting traditional Japanese techniques is so much better (she is the daughter of a ex-NZI friend). I can though understand how her training her in Kyoto would have been very disciplined. No one does anything in Japan by halves.

Now my meandering, sun-drenched path is taking me past more shrines, how many are there in this city? Back up into the madhouse of the little streets of Gion (that we visited on Tuesday in the rain) and hook up with the tour gang.

The next bit of the tour we are all excited about and have been waiting in anticipation for a long time. We are going to meet a real Maiko, that's an apprentice Geiko (what Geisha are called in Kyoto). Ken leads us down a back street, we enter, and she is there sitting so demurely waiting for us. Shoes off, get a grip Catherine don't fall over in front of the maiko. In we are ushered to sit, ask questions and chat. Heinuo clearly loves her job, plus learning about music, dancing and making tea. She knows about Australia as has visited Brisbane with Japanese tourism. Thinks it is hot there! She then does a dance for the season, she is so tiny and moves like a butterfly with kimono flowing. Such precise moves, I am in a trance. More chatting, then photos all round and everyone is star struck. Did that just happen?

Our final dinner together is in a restaurant that specialises in Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki, we have our own room and pots in the centre to cook. It's the traditional tatami mats but with an innovation, under the table is empty so we are sitting on the floor but our legs are in a well, much easier on the knees. We meet Mike who runs Samurai Tours, at first he is a bit standoffish but eventually gets into the conversation and shares some insights about Japan.

The illuminations (lit cherry trees) are nearby so Gail and I set off like intrepid explorers to find them. I make a few wrong turns but eventually, we make it to the Tower of Yasaka and then onto Kodajii Temple that has the garden all lit, a vivid-style festival in the zen garden and an amazing bamboo forest. It is so good we go back to Kyoto station to celebrate with a cup of tea and cake. Party animals right to the end. It's such a warm night everyone is out enjoying themselves. Bye, bye Kyoto I will miss you.

Zen and the art of surprise

Arayshima Bamboo Forest

Tenyru Temple

Zen Garden at Tenryu-ji Temple 

Zen cuisine at Tenryu Temple

Arashiyama local area

Shoes off for the sutra writing session 

Moss Garden, even the path has to be perfect

These bus seats are beautiful, sakura (cherry blossom)
and autumn leaves 

No photos allowed at special
sutra writing session,
this is a couple of extra characters
from my holiday notebook

We nearly loose Henry before we even get on the train but all is well and we are squished in with locals and tourists. I think this is the squishiest train ride so far, a grandmother that comes up to my waist is trying to push me out of the way. Thankfully it is only a short ride and we are ejected into Arashiyama, once a favourite relaxation spot of the emperors.

We start by walking along the back roads around streets filled with villas (holiday houses), this would be a lovely place to stay a mix of old and new houses, adorable gardens and old men playing croquet in a park. Before we know it we are immersed in the bamboo forest.

Effortlessly Ken directs us onwards towards our goal, little do we know what is ahead for the rest of the day. We arrive at Tenryuji Temple and marvel at the borrowed landscape garden that uses the background hills to create part of the structure. Ken also has us spotting dragons in the landscape. Once you start looking they are everywhere. They say if the pond looks tranquil or messy to you this an indication of your state of mind. Today it looks tranquil with a little bit of mess on the sides. So I guess that is my mind today.

Now Ken has asked us to sit on a bench seat and admire the garden, a few minutes later he comes back and says we are ready. We follow him to another temple building (shoes off to enter) and then are lead to a beautiful private room for a special lunch. It is Zen cuisine prepared by the monks to match the season. The various dishes are strictly vegetarian with cooking broths made from sea kelp, mushrooms and dried gourd. Ken explains each of the dishes and how to enjoy. We all try to be mindful and chew each mouthful and savour this wonderful experience.

We are all feeling a bit relaxed now, maybe the Zen is seeping into us. We move onto Kokedera, the moss temple and we have another surprise in store, we are here to use ink and brush and copy sutures all whilst monks are chanting. Everyone is quite and studious copying their sutras it is a surreal experience, the faster the monks chant, the faster I work. It is very meditative to hold the brush, mix ink and concentrate on each character.

We offer our work to a Buddha created in the 8th century and move onwards to sit and reflect on the sutras. David (a tour buddy) reads out the heart sutra and Ken invites us to interrupt what this means to us as an individual.

A masterpiece in wood

Moat, one of the many defences

Dangerous blokes

On the way up Ken, our tour guide showed us
lots of tricks the designers used to send any attackers
on the wrong path

The scrum to get to the top (6th floor),
all carrying our shoes in plastic bags

View from the top

Structure is 90m tall

My lovely tour buddies, left to right,
Gail (Aussie), Charles, me, Melanie and David (USA)

Koko-En Garden, fitting to find a heron

There is no rest in Japan, too much to see. We are at the station and on Shinkansen platform 12 bound for Himeji. 45 minutes whiz by, the mountains getting closer and closer and we are here. I wonder how do we get to the castle and before my eyes it becomes obvious, there is a wide street and at the end perched on the hilltop is our destination.

So along the avenue, we go with excitement mounting at every step, Himeji Castle is shining in the sun and surrounded by cherry blossoms. We arrive at the first slope. What do we do first? Take photos of cherry blossoms, run up the hill, gaze in awe at the castle? Ken keeps us in check and guides us slowly but surely in the right direction through the labyrinth, pointing out all the features along the way. He tests our knowledge of how to attack castles and shows us all the tricks the designers used to send attackers in the wrong direction and to certain death with u-turns, boiling water drop zones and choke points.

Now there is a whole lot of announcements in Japanese and plastic bags, ah, we get it. We must take off our shoes and carry them in the keep. Now the hard bit starts and there are ladies here that look like they are 100 years old scurrying up the steep steps quicker than me. Ken keep us occupied and each level with stories about the two great wooden pillars that support the structure, how the plaster is made (I still can't get over this castle is made of wood) and the restorations that take place each 200 years the last one in 1958 when the entire castle is dismantled, reviewed/renewed and then put back together. The site is now world heritage and had an extensive renovation and reopened in 2015.

As we go up levels in the keep, its gets narrower and narrower till at the top it is like a scrum. There are lots of tourists and locals. Locals come from all over the area to see the blossoms and this is the first nice weather day for a while. It's a party atmosphere and everyone is happy to be here. Finally, we make it to the 6th level and are rewarded with views of all the flowering trees below.

On the way down we are treated to yet another rare occasion, blossom snow. The trees are starting to loose their petals and 1,000s of pink dots are floating in the wind. Beautiful.

But wait there is more, next door is the Koko-En Garden with bridges, waterfalls, massive koi, bamboo and fir trees my camera battery is dying and my senses are on visual overload. There is a group of people hanging around a pond looking excited, what is going on? It's a heron at least a metre tall going about its business feeding in a pond getting annoyed with all the tourists that have decided to take its photograph. Gail gets the photo of the day and manages to get quite close. It seems fitting that we see a heron, as the nickname for the castle is the white heron.

Going to need a sit-down and a cup of tea soon. But Ken comes to the rescue and digs out another treat from his froggy bag to keep us all going. Eventually, it is time to go and we head back to the station.

Little known to us Ken has another surprise in store for us we go up to the platform to take us back to Kyoto a little bit early. There are three tracks, the middle one is for shinkansen (bullet trains) that do not stop we post lookouts to watch either way and within minutes the first bullet train approaches and zooms through at 300km/h. Much cheering. Another zooms through, yeah better video.

Rain, rain, rain

Fushimi Inari Shrine

Fushimi Inari Shrine - warding off the spirits

Fushimi Inari Shrine

Fushimi Inari Shrine - quick grab a photo in this gap of tourists

Cherry blossoms petals floating down the rain

Eating pasta with chopsticks, made it through the whole meal

Sannenzaka Slope in Gion

Gion

In oldest zen temple, this roof painting
 was done in 2002 to commemorate
the 800th anniversary of the temple, it is truly amazing
and the dragons seem to leap off the roof
The artist is Koizumi Junsaku

A lovely dinner with Gail (an Aussie on the tour),
followed by an excursion to 7-11
for money and milk and the shop assistant thought
we were Italian, no Aussies, ahh, kangaroos. 

I wake to the sound of rain, the weather app says rain all day and a top of 12 degrees. Hmm. Well, a tourist must do what a tourist must do. Dress appropriately and make the best of it.

We travelled today to:

Fushimi Inari Shrine - its the one with the red tori gates that you see in all the photos of Kyoto, built in 794 there are fox statues everywhere to deliver messages from the gods. 

Yasui Konpiragu Shrine - a cute little extra shrine where you climb through a tunnel and cut ties with bad relationships

Higashiyama and Gion districts - with little streets and old world atmosphere where the geiko live, train and work, there are about 300 left in Kyoto  

Its now 3pm, we are delirious with exhaustion and can’t take another step, where is Ken our guide going now, I thought we where done about an hour ago. It's all amazing, even in the pouring rain however this is starting to feel like a death march. That sentiment this morning about making the best of it has certainly worn off. 

We are now going to Kennin-ji, the oldest zen temple in Kyoto. Shoes off. Better hold onto something otherwise I will fall over and not get up. Gee, the floor is cold, we idle through, can we go yet? Then we arrive at the dry landscape garden and my equilibrium is restored. Ken has saved the best for last this is beautiful. So tranquil and with the rain it looks perfect. Now time to go on and explore the rest of this temple.