Berlin = bikes

Rosco keeping an eye on my flight to Berlin

Welcome to Berlin

Fishtank in the lobby, pretty impressive

Bikes everywhere

Alex

Cute people on crossing signs

Berliner Dom on River Spree,
the room looks straight onto the Dom

Welcome to Berlin, its early afternoon and there are pushbikes everywhere. Its time to explore, first stop is the nearby Sunday art market. One block this way, turn right, I am there. Nice stall, nice stall, what little glass animals – there is a schnauzer. Time to start spending.

Now its time to move on and make my way back over the river and up to Alexanderplatz, called Alex by the locals. Its pretty easy to navigate to, just look for the looming TV tower. Sunday really is the best day to arrive in a big city, so many people wandering around enjoying the day. I already feel like I am in a Bourne movie with all the yellow trams going by. I wonder If they are called trams here? All the advertising and signs are in German, most of the people on the streets sound german. Very different from Malta where English is very common.

Lots of markets on as all the shops are shut on Sundays here. Back around to Hackescher markets, lots of trendy little shops to explore when the expert shopper arrives. Lots of street art, paste ups, sticker bombs, paint everything. I can’t find an invader will probably need eagle eyes for that as well. A bit more exploring then back to base.

What a base, 5 story high fish tank in the lobby, beautiful room with view onto River Spree and Berliner Dom, doors that open wide and let fresh air. Time for a bath and a bit of a rest before the Berlin plan kicks into action. 

Good girl, woof, woof

Greenery in Gozo

Pauls final stop as a tour guide,
the Lunzjata fountain 

Hedgehog sign from the bus to Malta,
much more exciting that a kangaroo

With Angela at bus stop

Washing on a roof top terrace

Church where my grandparents
where married in 1934

Mosta Dome, beautiful

Goodbye Malta, its been wonderful!

Goodbye Monica and Paul, thanks so much for sharing so much of Malta and Gozo with me. Time to head back to Malta, ferry, bus, bus. Done. We are at Angela’s home in San Gwann.  First order of business, put on washing and now out to brave the Saturday morning shoppers at Lidos. I love checking out all foods in a different country we make slow progress with all the friends Angela runs into, its like the village square in the supermarket. Final stop is the pastizzi shop, happy me.

Its time for siesta I think I am made for this pattern of living, I am well and truly ready for a lie down in my room with roof top views. Siesta over, washing is dry and now I have a bag full of clean clothes for the next part of my journey thanks to Angela.

Time to check out the house and all the wonderful photos. Angela shows me lots of photos including two of my great grandparents on my grandmothers side. Its cooler now let’s venture back out onto the streets of Malta.

There are 365 churches in Malta, one for every day of the year.  But we have three churches on our agenda, up and down narrow one way streets we go, this way, that way, a stop sign, a 3 point turn or two. Finally the church where my grandparents where married, tick. Back into the car and along the foreshore to church where they where baptized, tick.

Another first for the trip I have finally driven in Europe, albeit in reverse for 6 inches to a parking spot.

We are travelling well so we make the final pilgrimage on this Malta tour to Mosta Dome. This time we can get inside and see the magnificent dome, it is the third largest in Europe and was hit by a bomb in WW2 with 300 people inside waiting for mass. Luckily the bomb did not explode.

A big thanks to Angela for finishing the tour of Malta off with a bang, there are even fireworks tonight.

Goodbye Malta, and just remember as the locals say, if all the Maltese from Australia, America and Canada returned the island would sink.

Belvedere all around

Secret cove for pirates

Typical maltese road, lots of potholes!

Fungus Rock

Azure Window

The best guide on Gozo

1, 2, 3, 3, 3, eventually I jump and Paul gets the picture!

Ta Pinu church

Stations of the cross

As agile as a mountain goat Paul starts today’s adventure with a walk along the coast. The sea is beautiful and blue, there as lizards running around everywhere and birds darting in and out of the bushes. We arrive at Paul’s secret location, Wied il Ghasri. It’s a cove that has been used for 1000’s of year to hide boats and smuggle goods. Paul can even remember coming down here as a child and hearing Italians speaking that we assume where up to no good.

We go back to the apartment and pick up Monica and Angela and off we go west to the end of Gozo. First we see the inland sea and then we deposit the crazy cousins into the shade and I follow Paul as we head for Fungus Rock. It is a rock 60m high that was protected by the knights for the medicinal qualities of the fungus that grows only on the island.

Our final destination is the Azure Window, a magnificent rock formation framed by the sea and  (which was also the site of the Dothraki wedding in Game of Thrones – Season 1)

Where are we going now, a windmill. I know it is on my Malta Heritage ticket but not sure this will be worth it? We arrange to meet on the green bench afterwards and off my tour guides go. The windmill ticket guy quickly figures I am Australian and temporarily have the status of a Gozitian, due to my connection with Paul so I get the royal treatment and a fascinating personal tour!

Ta’ Kola Windmill for most of the 20^th century was run by Guzeppi Ta Kola. He fought in Gallipolli, worked in the cane fields of Queensland, ran the mill and then when milling was no longer needed adapted to fixing wheels and barrels and making tools. He was a very capable man. During the war when their was no fuel to run the milling machines, he started up the windmill again. Even at 75 years of age he would rope himself up and climb out along the sails of the windmill to set the speed. He was also very resourceful he had a cut off cone shell to blow to signal the villagers the mill was working. The dogs heard it first and barked to alert the villagers. I saw many machines he made, one included the top of a sheep skull to feed the corn in – very ingenious.

Now I meet another pair of Australian’s every time you meet an Australian, the questions follow the same pattern, its like a ritual,

• who in your family was Maltese?

• what was their surname?

• where in Australia do you come from?

Next stop is Calypso Cave and Ramala Bay. Here I learn something very interesting, Paul was in scouts and even trained the Duke of Edinburgh candidates, no wonder he knows all these walking tracks and is so sure on his feet. Monica also runs into an old school friend.

No visit to Gozo would be complete without a swim, by the time we get back Monica has the pasta ready and then we have fresh figs and siesta. I sleep for a good solid hour.

Everyone wakes up from siesta, they are talking lots of Maltese I have no idea what is going on. Eventually I understand we have no water and no internet, we are in big trouble. Paul runs up and down the stairs, taps are turned on and off and water disaster is averted. But now there is no milk and yet again Paul goes on a rescue mission for Halib.

Today is the feast of the sacred heart so Paul is taking short cuts along farm roads to get to Ta Pinu church on time. This church is the most beautiful I have seen so far. Not ornate like the others, but full of mosaics, its light and airy and overall has a serene spiritual feel about it. There is also a fascinating section with offerings from people as far away as Australia.

Whilst the cousins go to church I walk to the top of the hill to via the stations of the cross. From the top I can feel just how isolated Malta is, a small island surrounded by a big blue sea.

Storm the citadel

Blue water straight across from apartment

The Citadel

Isn't Gozo beautiful!

In Archeology museum, the 5 types of rock used in building,
very interesting

Finally some street art, albeit a few hundred years ago
 in Citadel Prison

Ggantja Temples

Lizards are everywhere

Excitement plus, festa

St Johns lit up for festival

First order of business today is to get the bus. We board right outside the apartment and in no time we arrive in Rabat (Victoria). Paul is in demand, has to take me to the Citadel and escort Monica and Angela around Rabat. Being Gozitian has advantages all round.

The Citadel was a place of refugee for all Gozitans to protect themselves from raiding corsairs and Saracens. Until 1673 each night the populations by law for their own safety to spend every night within the citadel.

Paul and I are walking up the ramps to the entry gates in the heat, we make it inside to be greeted by the steps of the cathedral. After a quick orientation tour Paul now leaves and I am free to explore on my own. Lots of photos to take and places to imagine how it must have been over the years to defend the Citadel from attack. Even in WW2 the Citadel was used for protection in WW2 air raids. Since arriving in Gozo I feel like I am on an episode of Game of Thrones.

There are 4 museums to visit as well. One of particular interest is the Old Prison with maritime graffiti from inmates. Finally I have found some street art!

We wind our way back to the bus terminal through the narrow streets of Rabat, seeing houses from Paul’s family and arriving at the terminal. Its very hot and we wait a while then finally get on the bus with about half of Gozo. I am at the back of the bus with stacks of tourists and locals. We hang on for grim life as the daredevil driver makes his way towards Marsalforn, I glimpse a river. Its about a metre wide and does not look very deep, but this is the first one I have seen anywhere in Malta. We go up hill and down dale and arrive at the sea, nearly there now. The bus has stopped and will go no further, what is going on. Lots of Maltese are going mamma mia and hassling the driver. Eventually we figure out the road is blocked and the bus will not go any further for a few hours. Ever resourceful Paul goes off and finds a lift back to the apartment and returns, as our shining knight of Malta is his white Peguot. Disaster avoided.

Finally we arrive back for siesta, we need it. For our traditional sandwiches, hobzbiz-zejt u tadam. I have been living on pastizzis and tuna sandwiches, bliss.

When it is cooler we venture out again, our first stop is the Ggantija Temples. It is late and I have the temples practically to myself, this is good. This megalithic site is the oldest freestanding structure in the world and was used for about 1,000 years for worship from about 3000 BC until the temple culture abruptly disappeared.

I am very impressed with this site and so glad that I got to see it!

Next the gang whisk me back into the car and off we go to Qala, pronounced Ala – I am getting more of the lingo as we go. More towns, little cemeteries, views from everywhere and even the channel to Malta with all three ferries in view at once. Time for some dinner at Rexy’s my gozo cheese ravioli is divine.

We are heading along the back streets of Gozo winding our way home, I promise I will not take anymore photos before we get there. The church of St John in Xewkija is all lit up and there is people everywhere. What is going on? Paul pulls into the square and I jump out camera at the ready and run up the steps of the church to see what is happening. There are hundreds of people singing and clapping a band is playing its amazing. I feel Paul at my elbow and he expertly manoeuvres me through the crowd, past the statute of St John and into the front of the possession this is mad. What a sight!

After all the excitement we head back to the abandoned car in the middle of the square with Monica and Angela and continue our journey. I am totally over excited now. I promise not to take any more photos, maybe.

Gone to Gozo

Angela, Me, Monica

The ferry takes cars and trucks

Looking to Gozo

Ready to go Captain

Comino

Gozo ferry port

The day is not over yet, Paul, Monica and I hop in the car and zip up the road to pick up Angela. We now start our journey to Gozo. This is a smaller island that is part of Malta. Paul is a proud Gosotian and keen to show off his birthplace. Many other family members also come from here and Dad often talked about the fun he would have in Gozo swimming and exploring.

The ferry is big, we drive on with lots of other cars and trucks. I would hate to be here in peak summer time. We pass the island of Comino and Paul shows me where the gap in the rocks lines up with the ferry. I quickly snap a photo – I hope I got it. I learn that only a few people live on Comino, but it has the essentials a policeman and a priest.

Off onto Gozo we go, its much greener than Malta. I have no idea where we are going up and down dale and then we arrive at a terrace restaurant. And get pizza’s to sustain us, I am well and truly tired now. Bed.

Aussies out and about

Marsaxlokk 

Peter's Pool

Happy swimmer

Hire cars can go anywhere

Blue Grotto

Hyperventilating at this point

Time team eat your heart out

Today Peter, Fiona and I are venturing out into the wilds of Malta by ourselves. Will we make it back?

First stop is the Hypogeum, well that is if we can find it. GPS keeps telling us turn left, turn right, and keeps putting us down the same street. What is going on? Let’s park and investigate. Peter is expertly reversing up a one way street into a prized spot. A few minutes of walking and its time to laugh out loud, I thought we where looking for a big archeological site. Hmm, this is the front door of a house. But all will be revealed on the tour.

The Hypogeum, a UNESCO world heritage site was found when someone was building a toilet. It is an underground crypt that dates back to 3,000BC.  We go down into the depths of cavities and see the amazing structures literally carved out of rock.

Peter and Fiona have planned an expert itinerary, but first we must get sustenance and have a pastizzi from one of the many street vendors, the one we pick is across from the pet shop. Now back into the Peugeot and off we go to Marsaxlokk. Fiona is navigating and yelling at the GPS, will we get there.

Wow, we arrive the beautiful blue sea is before us. I hop out of the car before Peter can even stop and off we go on a photo shoot of this lovely fishing village. Time to find some lunch, we get the order the same sandwiches as Angela made for us – tuna, capers, tomato, olives. We saw we are going swimming so the shop packs it all up in a bag for us to carry.

Next destination. Peters Pool. So nice of them to name a pool after my brother (or maybe one of the saints?). The GPS tells us it is only a hop skip and a jump away. No problemo. Hmm. This road is very dusty, now there are walls of stone as high as the car and no where to turn around or pass another car. We catch up to a BMW driving very slow. Maybe he does not know where he is going as well? One of the corners nearly requires a three point turn to negotiate. Fiona is panicking, I am pretending to play it cool but really panicking inside. Peter is laughing and having a ball. This goes on and on, for what seems like hours. But eventually we get a glimpse of the beautiful blue sea and we arrive. An excited run down a bushtrack and we are here, the most beautiful bay. Time for a swim and lunch. Bellissimo!

All good things must come to an end and we reluctantly leave. The GPS is telling us to go down a different path that looks very steep. I am holding my breath hoping Peter will say no lets go the way we came. But he decides to take the dangerous option and off we go onto an even smaller track, slipping and sliding. Rocks coming up from below the car and hitting my feet. Mamma mia. Finally we make it back onto tar, I could kiss the ground.

How blue can the Mediterranean get? As blue as the Blue Grotto. Its magic in the sunshine. Serious photo snapping to be done here.

A bit further down the road and we go to check out the boats and have a gelato. What do we find a guy showing falcons and owls. I nearly fall over my feet in an attempt to get across to him. He sees my keenness and answers everyone of my strange bird questions and even lets the falcon stand on my hand!

Its hot, we have drunk 10 litres of water and are still thirsty but we push on. Hagar Qim is a megalithic temple system and we cant miss out on any archeological sites on our tour of Malta. The 4D movie in airconditioned comfort is bliss. We then get back out into the heat to explore all over the structures and even walk all the way to Mnajdra temples.

Peter and Fiona deliver me back to base and the next adventure can begin.   

V for Valletta

On the buses

St. Johns Co-cathedral

Upper Bakkara 12 noon salute

Paul, me and Peter

Grand Harbour

Amazing streets

Clocktower at Grandmasters Palace 

The seat of the president,
our claim to fame a third cousin,
Anton Buttigieg was president from 1976-1981 

Gelato time!

Our brick......

We are ready and waiting for our next day out to the capital, Valletta. Peter and Fiona arrive and with Peter driving and Paul navigating we make our way to San Gwann for the bus.

Its about 25 degrees and we are sweating already in the morning sun, tourists are all walking the same way through the entry gates to Valletta, lets go!

Republic St leads us right down first destination, St John’s Co-cathedral. Into the cool sanctuary we go. Marble parquetry, gold columns, frescos on the roof. Where do I look first? Let’s start with stop 1 on the audio guide, ok now I have some rhythm. This church was built by the knights of Malta and has 8 chapels to represent each group within the knights. I think there must have been a bit of a competition as each group tried to out to do the other with gold, silver and amazing art works. Finally we arrive at the Caravaggio, ‘The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist’. It is very dark and quite breathtaking. I feel like a 10 year old boy as I have to admit I like that he signed his name in the blood from the beheading.

Later Paul tells me about the time Napoleon was ripping off all the treasures from the cathedral and the quick thinking locals painted the silver bars to the chapel black so they would not be stolen.

On we go to Barrakka Gardens and Paul, our tour guide times it perfectly so we see the 12 o’clock cannon fire over the Grand Harbour. The views up here are spectacular.  But time to move on and get the lift down to the waters edge. Here we see Customs House that Dad and family went through to leave Malta and get on the boat for Australia.

Around water front we go snapping photos and annoying cats. Well I annoy the cats, Fiona takes photos of them. We are ready for a break so in the shade of the walls of Valletta we enjoy some hobzbiz-zejt u tadam made at home by Monica and Angela. Let me translate that for you, its a tuna sandwich on steroids. So flavoursome.

After feeling refreshed up and up we go back to Republica Street. Valletta is like a ridge with the capital on the top surrounded by massive defensive walls and harbours. A good place to setup and keep out the turks, prirates and everyone else who has attacked Malta over the years.

The Knights of Malta are a complex order that started in 1023 and used their Malta as their base for 15^th, 16^th and 17^th century. They moved the capital from Mdina to Valetta and built most of the amazing structures on Malta today. Initially starting out as an order to care for sick and injured pilgrims over the centuries they evolved into a formidable fighting machine that roamed the Mediterranean causing grief. They where also very wealthy and that means this small Mediterranean island has treasures that rival the best museums in the world.

The Grandmasters palace is next on our tour of Valletta. This was built for the Italian chapter of the knights. It is big and impressive. I so love opulence. State rooms done. Obligatory photo with knight. Tick. Now onto armory, fascinating however I am so tired I can barely hold the audio guide up to my ear. Time to go to the gift shop. We all finish in the gift shop and now lets find somewhere to sit down.

A gelato shop beckons and its good to get off our feet.

We head back up to the bus and our tour guide Paul veers off into a side street. We are learning to be Maltese and always walk in the shade. Past amazing coloured doors we make our way to Hastings Garden and see the other side of the harbour that surrounds Valletta.

Thanks to Paul for being an amazing guide, we covered so much more than is in the blog post and learnt so many interesting stories about Valletta. This was an experience that can never be repeated.

A quick stop by a property that will make all our family fortunes (not!). Back at home Monica and Angela have been preparing a feast. Edward, Ginny, Faith and Betttina (Paul and Monica’s son and family) join us and we sit on the terrace and enjoy the views, food and good company. We eat traditional Maltese food, bragoli, (beef olives) and Edward fills us in on politics of Malta and 4wdriving here. That explains the land rover parked out the front!