Making new friends

Right near where I am staying 

Very civilised commuters

Maybe we could squeeze a few more people in
if the tourist would stop putting her arm in
the air to take photos

I got the one I wanted!

For Clinto

The big camera / electronics store

Me and Mr President

Owl Cafe

Who are you looking at?

Akihabara

It’s Monday morning and time to tackle the trains on a work day. Hope they are pushing people into carriages. Local train packed but doable, change lines much more crowded, but so civilised Everyone lines up in rows of two, as the doors open the lines part to let the other people off, then everyone gets on. Very impressive. I watched this spectacle three times and no one stepped out of place.

Firs stop for today is Yobodashi, the biggest camera and electronics store in Japan with 9 floors to explore. I have a long list and a mission. Item 1, tick, item 2, tick, ooh a new selfie stick, why not. Pink or orange. Finally, decide on the orange. Shopping done but I seem to have brought more for me than for Stephen. Oh oh, that might mean he will get more t-shirts. Clinto has clued me all up on this store and now it's time to explore the toys. What are these strange machines at the top of the escalator, a bank of them. What are all those young girls giggling and pouring all their money in. Hmm, they are capsules - seems to me a bit like poker machines. So I better see which one I like the best, the owls win. Like the look of the brown one, score the colour I liked best comes out first. Lucky me. I think the strategy is that you keep going until you get the one you want?

Be still my beating heart it is nearly the allotted time for my next activity. I find the right street and sit outside on the stool and get chatting. Surprise, surprise. Whitney is from Louisiana, USA and currently working as an English teacher in China and here on holidays. She is as excited as me, they let us in first and we are in Akiba Fukurou, an owl cafe. This is the most surreal hour anyone can spend, seeing owls up close, touching them and holding them. Mr President is by far my favourite. What an experience. The hour just flys and its time to say goodbye and move on.

Akihabara is known as ‘electric town’ and started after WW2 when people set up stalls and sold spare parts for radios. Today it is a thriving metropolis with maid cafes, anime, manga and of course, electronics. It's full of energy and over the top, just like everything in Tokyo. My favourite part is watching the geeks get over excited.

Well, that’s the day gone already now its travel to Shinjuku for night time activities.

Old and new (Harajuku to Shibuya)

Breakfast

First train ride and I have a new buddy

Meiji Shrine

Takeshita Dora

Yoyogi Park

Shibuya Crossing

Shibuya Crossing

2 mins away from returning to base
 and this lovely lady appears,
full white face makeup as well

Everything is still new, the first new thing to try today is breakfast. I decide to wear the yakuza (with Qantas pjs underneath) but can't decide what shoes to wear. Are the room shoes allowed out of the room or not? Decide on the toe socks and survive. It's rice and stuff, green and pink and amazing looking I try a bit of everything, like the egg and fish steak the best. The miso soup is divine and has small clam shells in it. A bit of a stretch from my usual breakfast but quite doable. I love the whole ritual of sitting down to such a beautifully prepared meal.

The second new thing is its time to catch a train, but first I have to get to the station, right, right, left but oops end up in the wrong direction, google maps is my friend and puts me back on track. Right, its Ginza G orange, towards Shibuya. Jane’s training from London is ringing in my ears. The train arrives within a few seconds and whisks me away. Why is everyone so quiet, I know it's Sunday morning, but really I want to take photos. Oooh, and video that cool interactive screen that explains the line, stations and exits. Now it's time to change trains, done. One more stop and I have arrived at my start point Harajuku.

Alas, there are no cosplayers on the bridge, so off to Meiji Shrine I go, the sky is bright and blue however it is freezing under the big trees on the path up to the shrine. Bowing at each gate, doing the hand and mouth wash before entering and saying a prayer are all part of the experience. It's peaceful, impressive and very traditional. I even saw a bride getting ready in the most elaborate dress and a head piece that looked like she was going to topple over if she moved quickly.

Now for a complete change of pace, let's see where the youth of Tokyo shop for the latest fashion trends on Takeshita Dora. Its narrow, packed with people and very strange. Crepes are also a thing in this area, I am deciding should I get one and realised I am standing in a line. So that seemed to make the decision. No.1 is my pick, banana, chocolate and cream. Good choice.

More exploring and then I end up getting taken along with the crowds and ejected into Yoyogi Park, known for hip-hop dancers and rockabilly rehearsals. Today it's all hanami parties under the cherry blossoms, people walking their rabbits and taking their dogs for a ride in baby strollers.

Onwards we go to the final destination for today Shibuya. More shopping, more exploring and be still my beating heart. Finally, an invader! Ten extra points for a new city. Happy days.

Five roads converge to create Shibuya Crossing, rumoured to be the busiest intersection in the world. Thousands of pedestrians have just 3 minutes to cross the roads and it all works like clockwork. Masses are merging and emerging on the other side. Tourists take advantage on any high point to capture the spectacle. Of course, I try out each side, each high point and climb into gardens with the best of them until I am satisfied. It's all a bit intense, that's enough for me I'm heading back to the quieter side of Tokyo.

Ahh, this is the life finishing off the day with a hot tub soak in the communal baths, chatting with a Russian lady who lives in New York.

Chasing cherry blossoms (Uneo Park, Tokyo National Museum)

Hanami party in progress

Near where I am staying

I am a woman in a new city with a mission, so what if it is raining and 4 degrees outside. At least that means I can wear the coat. Switch plans to rainy day option. So back in a taxi and up to Uneo station. It's time to eat something, there is one of those bakery type places, lets try that. What are those women doing, get a tray and your own tongs. Pick something out, but what are these delights? Ah, put my glasses on and now I can see English descriptions. Not that that helps me - red bean paste? Its comes down looks, the rabbit or the panda. The rabbit bun wins. Gee, I hope I can get a cup of tea to go with this, not that green stuff. Yes, ‘normal’ tea is called English tea. Another win. Now to pay, money on the silver tray, change comes back and yes that is my first transaction in yen. The rabbit is full of custard and delicious. The only drama is I can’t figure out how to open the milk, no matter what I try.

Its still raining and maybe even colder, but up into Uneo Park I go nothing is stopping me now. This is more like it, there are cherry trees flowering, lots of them, lots of people doing selfies and setting up for hanami parties, who cares about the weather, much snapping and exploring ensues.

Finally my toes are frozen, it's time to get inside. The treasures of the Tokyo National Museum await. The works have all been curated to the season and cherry blossoms abound, in paintings, wood block prints, lacquer boxes, scrolls, kimonos, everything. It is all exquisite and well laid out. As usual there is a trusty app with stories to give me that much-needed context.

My tummy is rumbling, need food. That place in the garden looks nice. Ok, I think you have to press buttons to get a seat in this place. Hmm, that machine is for car parking. Eventually I figure it out and get my ticket. Now sitting waiting with other groups, numbers get called out and people go up. Hmm, I cant understand any of the numbers this is going to be interesting. I guess when it is time for my number and hold it up. I get a nod and a ‘hei’. Phew another hurdle jumped.

Time for the toilet, did you need to know that? Well, every toilet is crazy, buttons galore and most play music to cover the sound. Everything in Japan is an experience, what a first day!

Land of the rising sun (arrival)

Wake up, its time for breakfast

Civilised from the start, no scrum
to get baggage like Sydney airport

My taxi awaits

Nice lace touches

A quick trip in

This is where I am staying

Departing Sydney at 9:45pm is way past my bedtime, But thanks to Qantas and an upgrade to the pointy end of the plane I had a good sleep and barely noticed the flight. The only entertainment was the announcements in English and Japanese. All I could understand in Japanese was arigato gozaimasu (thank you very much), I wonder if I will understand more on the flight home.  A 9-hour flight with most of it asleep seems like a walk in the park compared to the London pilgrimage.

We land just as the sun is rising which seems a bit poetic. Let's see how customs works in Tokyo, no surprises the same as anywhere else. But all the security people have very official looking uniforms, peaked hats, gold braid, quite formal.  My new passport is initiated and its time to find that bag. Woah, what's this? A line for people to stand behind and then move forward when their bag arrives, how civilised. Nothing like the rugby scrum at Sydney airport.

Now for my first taxi ride, a nice yellow car that looks new but stuck in a time warp from the 70’s. Nice touches on the inside, lace protectors on the seats. Looks a bit Italian to me. Globalisation? It's funny the things you notice when everything is new. The driver is very nice but does not seem to be able to read my instructions in English or Japanese and spends half the trip pretending to type in the address to the GPS. Maybe he just drives on Saturdays to make some pocket money to take the grandkids out. Anyhow it only takes about 20mins and we are here. First mission accomplished.

Sayonara Sydney

Checking out all the cool things to do in Japan
 with my trusty companion Rosco

21 Japanese words in the back of my notebook,
 that's enough isn't it?

Chopsticks ready?
 Over the last year I have gradually learnt to use chopsticks
at our traditional Step Two Crew Monday lunch

Excitement is at an all-time high as I sit here waiting to board QF25 for a new country and a new adventure. From the outside, Japan seems like a complex culture full of high tech, low tech and ancient traditions. I plan to immerse myself fully, let's see what my impressions are by the end of the trip.

Cherry blossom time in Japan is a big deal with tracking websites, radio announcements and TV updates on the progress of the blossoms through the country from south to north as spring arrives. I may or may not have over the last week spent an extraordinary amount of time checking out the sakura (cherry blossom) news. Blossoms are expected to be good on my arrival and for the next few days, barring rain or wind storms. Fingers crossed. One tree looking nice and I will be happy! Then it's on to see the rest of Tokyo and beyond.

Books set in Berlin

12 days exploring Berlin, by bike, train and foot.

Berlin is elusive.
You can visit the sites.
Interact with locals.
Read all about the history, good and bad.
But I could not quite tap into the essence of Berlin by the end of our trip.

Plenty of people come to Berlin for six months and stay for ten years. What am I missing?Away from the city centre, Berlin feels free and unencumbered is that what appeals to all the people that stay for ten years? Or are they still trying to figure it all out?

I enjoyed every moment of our trip, however it was not until I extended the holiday by delving into some books set in Berlin that the puzzle came together for me.

Berlin: City of imagination by Rory MacLean

MY RATING: 5 of 5

This is an ingenious and entertaining book.

Starting in 1469 this is a collection of short stories based on an individual's life at a particular time in Berlin through the ages. Each chapter is a surprise, I did not have a clue where each chapter was going but by the end, I could feel and walk the streets in that person’s shoes.

Some of my favourite chapters included:

• the dreams of Schinkel in building a great capital
• JFK’s visit as a play in 1963
• David Bowie let loose in the city

I read it slowly to savour every story and by the time I finished, I wanted to go back again and visit Berlin with fresh eyes.

Roads to Berlin by Cess Nooteboom

MY RATING: 2 of 5

Cess is a Dutch journalist that lived in and out of Berlin from 1960s to 1980s.
He is a great observer of human behaviour and gets under the skin of what is happening on both sides of the wall from politicians and soldiers to ordinary people on the street.
The first chapter and the last few chapters are a delight. However, the rest of the book is tedious. The book is also supposed to be funny however does not match my Aussie style of humour. Having said that I did get some good insights on what it might have been like to live on different sides of the wall and the tumultuous times as the wall came down.

At one point he states that the entire city is sitting in the waiting room of history. I think that is still true now, Berlin has not yet found its true identity, and its past is still a heavy load to bear.

When Hitler stole pink rabbit by Judith Kerr

MY RATING: 4.5 of 5

You can’t escape WW2 on a visit to Berlin, nor in many of the books. However, this gem narrated through the eyes of 9-year-old Anna shares a child’s perspective as the Nazi’s come to power and set the world on a path of destruction.  

The story starts in Berlin and then travels through Europe as the family escapes the political turmoil and adjusts to a new life. I enjoyed the simplicity of Anna and her brother Max’s viewpoints. 

At one point Max quips, I always knew we should have brought the games compendium, Hitler’s probably playing snakes and ladders with it this very minute.

The Wall by Tom Buchwald

MY RATING: 3.5 of 5

A non-fiction book that gives a good summary of when the wall appeared, how the wall divided the city and ultimately fell. 

With compelling pictures on every page as an outsider, I was able to gain some understanding of what it must have been like to live through these turbulent years. 

The author uses very emotive language, like ‘…The Berlin Wall: The monstrous product of unmitigated evil’ which from my comfy life in Australia I found a bit strong. I assume he has personal experience of the wall which would make all the difference. Overall I found this book useful as I try to understand the complexities of modern-day Berlin.

Those Crazy Germans!: A Lighthearted Guide to Germany by Steven Somers

MY RATING: 3 of 5

Want to know about rules, German hip-hop or skinny dipping then this is the book for you. 

Full of obscure but useful information like an explanation of mountain TV. A channel that shows real-time views of the mountains accompanied by weather and classical music. Or how cities are named in Germany and that's why Berlin has the symbol of a bear. 

An easy to consume read for insights into a different culture. Recommended for first-time visitors that like to understand more about the country they are visiting.

Written by an American and not strictly set in Berlin it still helped on my quest to improve my understanding of Berlin.

My Berlin reading had slowed down and I wanted to do one more book. I tried Walking in Berlin: a flaneur in the capital by Franz Hessel which sounded great however I stopped very quickly, it was going nowhere. Then I selected A Princess in Berlin set in the 1920's I was hooked from the first page. However it was not available on Kindle and out of print, for me continuing to read in PDF was not enjoyable. Hopefully, this book will make a debut on Kindle one day soon.

The Good German by Joseph Kanon

MY RATING: 5 of 5

The final book was an excellent choice. I did not want to put it down and kept sneaking a few more pages between meetings.  Set in the months immediately following the surrender in Berlin during WW2, the book is a vivid portrayal of what life on the streets must have been like in those dangerous days, from dinners at the Aldon to escaping along the route to the Victory Tower.
Jake, an American war correspondent returns to Berlin after being away all through the war, he has a mission to find his lost love but quickly gets tangled in all the dirty deals between the Americans, British, Russians and Germans. Who is good and who is telling the truth?
With in-depth characters, love, espionage and a powerful story I thoroughly enjoyed this book.  The story took me on a journey always questioning the motivations of the characters in their darkest hours.  What would I have done to survive in the same situation? Joseph Kanon has another fan.

Other Berlin book lists that I found helpful:

• I heart berlin, one of my favourite websites
• Guardian, as always, reliable and honest evaluations

A Woman in Berlin by Anonymous

MY RATING: 5 of 5

Added  - May 2018

A powerful memoir of 6 fateful weeks at the end of WW2 in Berlin. The author blow by blow captures each day vividly describing what she and other civilians (mainly women) endured. The days are full of fear, rape and gallows humour but somehow it's palatable. This is not a book I would have ever expected to enjoy or recommend but it’s essential reading on two levels. One for the superb writing, another to fully understand the horrors of war on a civilian population. 

Later I learned about furore when it was published, the authentication as a real story and then how it was republished in 2002 once the author had passed away.  (In my edition all this is explained in the forward which I think is best read after the story if you don't like spoilers.)

This book will stay with me forever.

  

A rustle in the bush

It’s early Sunday morning and we are out for a walk in nearby bushland. Stephen spots something moving low in the bush, he thinks it is a plastic bag caught on some ferns, but then realises it is a pair of ears. Off he goes to discover what it is. I finally catch up and its a joey, shivering and cold with no mother in sight. What do we do? First thing Stephen does is pick the joey up and get it warm. Then he hands him over to me and goes off to search for the mother. I have a nice snuggle while he is gone. Stephen returns empty handed and we decide to take the Joey home and see what we can do. 

When we get home, we check him all over and he seems malnourished but otherwise ok. We wonder how long he had been out in the bush by himself and how long would he have survived on his own? He is still cold so we heated up a wheat bag and made him a pouch. But he had other ideas, one second he was in the pouch and the next he had climbed in through the top of my jacket and landed on my chest. He was in before I even realised what was happening. It was bliss.

A quick call and a wildlife carer arrived to take care of him. He will be looked after locally for a while and then moved to a kangaroo specialist to be buddied with another kangaroo.  Eventually released back into the wild together. Its sad to see him go, but the best outcome for him.

So the debate is what species is he? Locally we have Eastern Grey Kangaroos, Swamp Wallabies and Wallaroos. Our best guess is a Wallaroo based on jaw shape, feet and where we found him.