Tokyo style

Frozen tuna cut with a band saw 

Fresh tuna sliced very thin with a
massive sword

Yummy, eels. Not.

Style on the streets of Ginza

My fav section in Mitsukoshi department store, china

Dear Ginza building,
hidden in a side street
but I found it

Mikimoto 

The main drag

Nissan crossing

Uneo Park

As we approach today's first stop the smell hits us first, we are on our way to Tsukiji fish market the biggest in the world that has been in operation since the Edo period. I am lucky to be able to visit as the market will soon be closed and relocated to make way for 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Forklift drivers are zooming in and out of the passageways, frozen tuna fish is getting cut with band saws and fresh tuna cut with what looks like samurai swords, there is every kind of fish imaginable. But enough is enough get me out of here and back to the clean streets of Tokyo.

Now the rest of the day is mine I have a plan (which will not surprise anyone) my focus is architecture and shopping in Ginza. I have planned out a route to take in a selection of modern buildings.

But first, let's follow the Jane Smith school of travel advice and go to the top floor of a department store for early lunch and a sit-down. Ok, I am in Mitsukoshi (my fav) and there are two choices, traditional Japanese or Harrods. Hmm, I give in, have had enough rice and fish for today. Harrods it is for a pot of real tea and sandwiches.

Re-energised its time to do my self-made architecture tour including Dear Ginza, Mikimoto Boutique, Apple store, De Beers building and more. The Ginza area started out as the site of the shotguns original silver mint. Nowadays every square metre of land is worth at least US$100,000 this leads to some very interesting modern buildings on a small footprint.

Now the walking is done, let's go shopping. I really enjoy the kimono and china sections in Mitsukoshi and find a few bits and pieces at the biggest Uniqlo store in the world. Uniqlo has a great welcome floor to explain everything on the different floors, funky decor and an amazing t-shirt bar.

The plan is to go and see one act of a play at the Kabuki theatre however the sky is now perfect blue so back on the train to Ueno Park to have a hanami (party under cherry blossoms) of my own. With a green tea strawberry cake from the food hall at Mitsubishi.

I have one mission left in Tokyo to find a fridge magnet. It's harder than you would think.

Happy in Hakone

Hakone Tozan Train

Hakone Tozan Cable Car

A 4 year old schnauzer
named Alzo at the top

At the top, Owakudani they cook eggs
in the sulfur and turn them black. Eating one extends you life
by 7 years. One guy ate 5.

The furthest slope is Mt Fuji, surprise!

Hakone Ropeway

With the captain? :)

Pirate ship

Cherry blossoms from the bus

Origami party on the way back

Bleary eyed and rugged up we meet to start today’s journey. Its 6:20am and we are off to visit the Hakone region about 100kms from Tokyo. Overall this was an excellent adventure that I never could have accomplished without Yuriko to guide us around. She even managed to get all of us seats on every leg of the journey.  Way too much happened to even begin to capture the day.

The summary is 7 trains, 2 buses and many other unique types of transport. Here are the stages,

• Metro, Tawaramachi to Kanda to Shinjuku
• Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto on the Romancecar, the only train in Japan with no arm rests between the seats so you can cuddle
• Hakone-Yumoto to Gora on a switchback railway we climbed 445 metres and the driver had to walk to the other end of the train 3 times for swtichbacks
• A cable car from Gora to Sounzan that rises 211 metres in a straight line for 1.2km
• Finally at the highpoint of our journey, Owakudani, the side of a volcano with sulphur springs. Its bitterly cold with an icy wind, most people huddle inside the cafes - I on the other hand run around like a mad woman to every vantage point and to my surprise discover the slope of Mt Fuji
• Now time for the descent, the first leg is 298 metres down on a gondola to Togendai-ko, to Lake Ashinoko
• We cross the lake in a pirate ship built for tourists, its impressive
• For this leg we had to use our own two feet and walk along the old Kyoto road through 350 year old cedar trees and the Kyoto checkpoint that feudal lords used to stop baddies getting into their territory (or out with their wives and children)
• The last descent back to the Romancecare train is on bus, on a crazy windy, steep road packed with people. The driver is impressive with precision and care but super fast he takes us through cherry blossoms, bamboo and big ancient trees and delivers us to the train.

I really enjoyed all the different engineering marvels to get around, up and over the mountains. I think in another life I could have been a trainspotter. Other highlights of the day included:

• lunch with local delicacies
• demo by local craftsman on wooden puzzle boxes
• making origami on the train back to Tokyo

All this was done with one ticket, the Hakone Free Pass.

Note: the Romancecar was not a bullet train as I expected, that is Sunday...can't wait.

Good things come in red packages

Senso-ji temple

Yuriko, our guide - has lived in Amercia, 

trained in kimino and tea ceremony, 

all round lovely person

Quail eggs

The main intersection in Ginza and this guy blocks
or adds to my photo, you decide

Nissan concept car

My package of happiness

More cherry blossoms, can't get enough

Today’s the day, I have already met my tour buddies at breakfast, 7 Americans and a Puerto Rican. Lets go. Our guide, Yuriko sets off for Sensoji it is the oldest and most significant temple in Tokyo. It's lovely in the early morning light with smaller crowds. We bow as we enter via the gate and now Yuriko shows us how to cleanse our hands and mouth before we enter the temple. Its lovely to walk around and explore with someone who understands the traditions and can explain them so well.

Next stop on the tourist trail is Roppongi Hills, a big property development in the centre of Tokyo with a 50+ floor high skyscraper with 360 degree views. I can see all the spots I have been to so far and there is so much more to see. The architecture in Tokyo is very different, a lot of the buildings I like are by Kenzo Tange.  Who I learn is a very famous Japanese architect.

My first for today is something you probably don’t want to know about. Here I am on the 52nd floor in the middle of a massive city and I can't figure out how to flush the toilet. There are buttons for music and washing, but flushing is just not happening. Fail.

We are all flagging now, a quick train ride to Ginza and we are here, the most expensive real estate in Japan, some people say the world. Whisked up to the 6 floor we have a traditional meal of Kushikatsu, which is fried skewers. Oishii (delicious). 

Finally we are let out on the streets of Ginza first stop is the Nissan concept store, then up to the Sony store to look like a real dork with a Sony camera around my neck. Then a very fancy paper store, Tokyo Kyukyodo and the best jewellery store I have been into in all my trips, Tasaki. Now let's just check out the department store, Mitsukoshi.  

Before I even get 10 steps into the store I have fallen in love with the scarves, hankies, little towels (that all Japanese carry) and furoshiki (wrapping cloth). The patterns and colours are exquisite, exactly why I wanted to visit Japan. I settle on a beautiful floral pattern with blues and pinks, but then my new best friend Yui, helps me walk around the department and we compare colours and sizes and debate the options. Settling back on the first one we picked. Nothing is too much trouble, at this point I am giddy with shopping endorphins. 

But wait there is more, now to the counter, please select which colour cover I want, red. Scarf folder and slipped ever so nicely into package. Now select which bow I prefer, gold. Then it is presented back in the typical Japanese way with two hands and I feel like I have been part of some private ritual. Its a real treat. 

Our final leg for the day is a river cruise is one of my favourite activities in a new city as you get to sit down and still see new things. Alas the boat is packed so I stand at the back to make sure I can take every photo possible. You do know that if I don’t take a photo it did not happen. The cherry blossoms along the river are just divine. News from home the ABC is reporting the cherry blossoms this year are the best for a long time.

Now it's time to for an early night. Tomorrow is an early start and my first ride on a Shinkansen (bullet train).

A room (or two) with a view

Sumida River

View from Tokyo Sky Tree

Sumida Hokusai Museum

Two of Hokusai's well know works

Who thinks I drank this?

My two new best friends, Naka and Rayen

Guess which of these buildings is affectionally known as
'The Poo Building' 

Great way to travel

Crowds are a bit intense in the afternoon

Can't get enough of these
beautiful blossoms

The sun is shining and I have one more free day to traipse around. First choice is Tokyo Sky Tree, the tallest tower in the world and the second highest structure in the world after Burj Khalifa in Dubai. ts not too far away, so I decide to walk. Pushbike coming fast, avoid, another one, avoid. Cherry trees flowering, turn, snap, snap. The river more cherry trees - this is divine. Old man, maybe a drunk at the best spot. Opps, he is a bit smelly, quick snap and move away. Across the bridge I go and onwards to more snapping and the tower. What is it with me and having to go to the top of every major structure in every city. Anyhow it's all worth, now I can see how big Tokyo is. Well actually I can't see where is ends there are just grey smudges at the end and everything is densely packed. This feels like the first touristy place I have been too, so next stop must be the gift shop.

Onwards to the Sumida Hokusai Museum, only recently opened I hoped it would be finished by the time of my trip. Hokusai is my fav Japanese artist (like most Western people). It would be pretty crazy to come to Japan and not see an original work. Tick. Tick. Tick. Plus there is a replica of his study that is so life like. Alas there is no point in visiting the gift shop here, I think I have every book, fridge magnet and postcard of his work in existence. But I just better check. Score, found a new inside outside postcard!

Now its time to find the famous poo building. Designed by Phillip Stark for Asahi Beer it is hard to miss. The building next door is the corporate headquarters and there is a little-known bar on the 22nd floor, today is a perfect day to see the views. So into the building I go, no security, office workers changing floors between accounts and IT. I can just get off at any of the floors. This does not happen in Sydney anymore. Opps, that man is out of uniform he has a grey suit with a subtle pinstripe. I think we have a rebel in the building. (All other office workers I have seen so far wear a navy suit, white shirt and plain tie). At the top and after buying the obligatory drink I shuffle to get a spot at the window. The view is perfect above the river, I have a beer glass, can’t remember how I focus on close and far subjects. Will I text Stephen? The lady next to me starts chatting in broken Japanese / English we figure out where we are from, talk about how far it is to Australia and cherry blossoms. Now her friend is getting in on the conversation. They get my name a bit mixed up and start calling me Caroline. I think they may have had one too many beverages today. Now the whole place is listening to our conversation, this is entertainment fuelled by Asahi. Finally, I remember how to do the beer photo and we are good to go.

Back down in the lift, its packed, and everyone bows as they leave the lift. Why? Should I? Will have to find out what that means.  It's time for some food, I am getting really game now - there is one of those order though the vending machine places. Lets try that, No 11 is my choice - the machine takes the train card for payment so lets try that as well. It all works. An older Japanese couple that I assume have come in to the city to visit the cherry blossoms for the day follow my lead and are also pleased when they succeed as well. Lots of happy people in town today, I will tell you about the man who likes wallabies another time. Retirees must be the same all over the world up for a chat and a story.

There is a new mode of transport I could try, will I or won't I. It could be fun, they go pretty fast. Yes, let's give it a go and in true tourist style I am whisked away by Taki for a ride in rickshaw. This is the best, no walking, going to all the best spots and feeling like the princess I am. Taki tells lots of stories and answers all my questions. Plus does photos, what more could a girl ask for.

It's getting cold but there is still a bit of daylight left so time for Nakamise shopping street, Sensoji temple and more cherry blossoms. Another top notch day, old and new, strange and cool all at the same time. Number of photos taken = lots.

Tomorrow the tour starts and I hereby resign from any navigation or timing responsibilities from this point forward and can just enjoy all Japan has to offer.

Night time shenanigans

Its freezing cold, there are people everywhere and its time to meet Lukas for a night photography tour. The instructions are very detailed and I manage to arrive without getting lost. In the busiest train station in the world with 36 exits and 5 levels I was very surprised. We set off and travel to overpasses, underpasses, little alleys, back on a train down to Shibuya all the way snapping. There are 6 of us all with different cameras and ideas, Lukas effortlessly helps us figure out all the dials and controls on our cameras. He even manages to point out where another Invader is nearby and I run off and score it. Another plus is I get to warm up a bit running back up the stairs to the group. But like all tours the best is kept till the end, we are lined up at Shibuya crossing. The lights change we race for to a manhole, drop to our knees and shoot the pedestrians coming towards us. The pedestrians behind merge it is like being in the middle of whirlpool. The countdown starts and Lukas yells time and we run back to safety, all puffing and laughing as we go. Lukas checks our shots makes some adjustments and we do it again, this time a bit more death defying and its a very close call!