Goodbye NY, Hello DC

Stephen's view of the train trip

I want to go in

The front side

They needed someone to talk about how
schnauzers can help with world peace

Then I signed a declaration
today will be National Schnauzer Day

The Willard Hotel, this is where in the 1860's President Grant
 would drink in the lobby and be approached by
"special interests"
-- the origin of the term lobbyist

Bags are packed and its time for my first taxi ride in New York. Some of the other tourists have told me about their dare devil adventures in taxis however there is too much traffic down 5^th avenue for my driver to play Jack Brabam. We have a great chat about how Rudy Giuilani cleaned up New York.

We arrive at Penn train station and I hop out right where the Channel 9 TV guys are. They are going to Washington to film Tony Abbott and will be on the same train as me. It really is a small world.

Now on the train and heading out of Manhattan, lets see if I can get the wifi working. Yes am online, so skype with Stephen as he also watches the train move towards Washington on an online train tracker. We are doing 105mph, it seems pretty amazing to be having a skype video chat as well from different sides of the world. For the rest of the trip I have a lovely chat with Lois who is just back from 70^th anniversary of D-Day in France and works for IBM on SAP implementations.

Arrive in Washington DC, Union Station looks even more impressive than Grand Central station but will check that out another day. Its time to hop in a taxi, check in and dump this bag. Now the Washington fun can begin.

Out into the oppressive heat I go its only 30C however with the humidity its pretty hard going. I like Washington’s big wide open streets it feel quite different. What this a street crossing without traffic lights, how do I get across? The cars are coming from every which way. Eventually I make it across and I am on my way to the White House.

Walking, walking, finally I see some a glimpse of white through the trees, is this it? Yes, cross a few more streets and I am here on the North side, with tourists, crazies and police cars. It’s much closer than I thought. According to the presidents schedule he is not in at the moment but he will be later.

Its so hot but must keep going, by The Treasury building and to the ‘front side’ of The White House. Now they invite me in to help out, how could I say no?

Moving on now to the Willard, time to sit on that nice chintz covered lounge chair in the corner and think about history and rest a while in the air conditioning. Slightly recovered now its time to go and find a metro stop and go back to Dupont Circle. There is the station, machine to buy ticket, red line is what I need, there it is and I am back. I declare Washington’s trains the easiest I have ever used.

For dinner I try out my first American pizza, the guy tells me this is Chicago Style, I am not sure what that means but it is yummy. The best food I have had so far on the trip. The thunderstorm that has been threatening all afternoon finally arrives with gusto, there is a tornado warning as well. Ok, scared now.

Lady Liberty

The staircase to the top
inside the Statue of Liberty

Which one is cuter?

The flame at the top is
covered in real gold

Ellis Island registration hall

Sony Wonderlab, you make shadows
 to shape the falling leaves

It’s an early start for me today, out the front there are all big black cars with Aussie flags stuck to the windows. What’s going on? There’s a media scrum at the entry to The Plaza, lets go over and see what is happening. How funny Tony Abbott is in town and staying across the road from me.

Now off to the subway and down to Battery Point. I have an 8am call to get on the ferry and visit the Statue of Liberty. This is more complex than I expected, line up and prove who you are with photo ID, then nearly strip off to get through security. Finally onto the boat and we are chugging through the fog, Lady Liberty is out there somewhere.

The captain finds his way and safely delivers me and about 600 other tourists to the island. Another lot of security and I am finally tagged for the climb. Yes, I am lucky enough to be climbing to the very top. First off is the 5 levels to get to the top of the pedestal, the big concrete structure then its another 354 steps inside the statue around a steep and narrow staircase to get to the crown. Finally I am there and there is about 2 metres of space to look out at the top before coming all the way down the stairs again. It really is an amazing structure on the inside.

Outside now and take a million and one selfies from many different positions to try and get one with both our heads included. Finally mission accomplished.

Now it’s onto Ellis Island, this is where immigrants to America used to be processed. They would sail in through the harbour, see the Statue of Liberty and then go into this massive hall and learn their fate to see if they would be accepted into the country. 12 million immigrants have passed through here.

Back up to 5^th Avenue I just have to check out Jeff Koons installation again, the structure is nearly finished. I am fading fast need sustenance. Let’s look in this fancy chocolate shop, Godiva. They have some kind of thick shake drink, Hazelnut please. One sip and I am now skipping up 5^th avenue who knows what they have in this drink.

So let’s go check out IBM building, ok. Sony Wonderlab is across the road but you have to book tickets well in advance but lets try anyhow. Come in Mam, right this way. I build robots, make animated movies and best of all make pictures with the shadow garden.

Back for a rest and then lets go out again, Museum Mile is on tonight where all the museums along 5^th avenue are free and the street is blocked off. So this is where all the New Yorkers are. Lots of dogs, kids, grandparents, people coming home from work and not a tourist in sight. Love the New York accents so strong. Feet getting weary now, lets go back.

I am crossing 5^th avenue and there is another media scrum and barricades in front of the Plaza surely that can't be for Tony? No one in the crowd seems to know what its for, the rumour is its Victoria Secret models. Anyhow lots of black cars pull up and lots of fancy people get out, lots of pictures are taken. I suspect in my dog tshirt and walking shoes I will not be able to cut through the Plaza today to get a frozen yogurt, so I hot tail it around to the side entrance.

Beyond cool

Times Square in the rain

Interpid sea, air and space museum 

Me with Enterprise Space Shuttle

Empire State building lost in the fog

The lake Ricki and I went birding at

First thing for me today is to turn on the TV and find the channel for the Today Show. Ok they are babbling about horse racing, tick. Its raining, quite a lot, should I change my plans and go back to the Met for another day? Oh come on, I have a raincoat and a sense of adventure – lets go.

Cloaked in my red rain jacket, umbrella and waterproof shoes I am walking down 5^th avenue playing taxi poker along the way. The preferred mode of dress for ladies is slim line gumboots and a trench coat. If you have the optional accessory of a small dog this must be carried under your arm and umbrella so the dog does not get wet. Perfectly sensible.

First stop is the Today show set, it’s raining but still stacks of people staring in at the studio set with live presenters. Tick. Now onto the next event, time to head west through Hell’s Kitchen. It’s torrential rain now, have I made a mistake? I turn the corner and see a big black plane and definitely I have made the right decision.

I am walking to the Intrepid sea, air andspace museum. This was not on my list however when I was on the cruise on Day 1 the announcer said under that pavilion on the back of the boat is a Space Shuttle. So I just had to find time to get here. The Intrepid is an aircraft carrier, docked on the side of the Hudson River and turned into a museum.

Up over the pedestrian bridge and I am in, first stop is the hanger deck, planes galore and lots of things you can climb into like a MASH helicopter and Gemini moon capsule. What’s this a G Force simulator. Hmm, they wont let me go in it has to be for two people. I move on, then they guy comes running after me as there is someone else that wants to have a go but needs a partner. So with my Spanish wingman, we take a spin, pull G’s, crash and manage not to vomit all at the same time. Just as well he was flying most of the time.

Now up onto the flight deck and I can climb up onto the bridge. That’s a lot of stairs but I can’t miss out. I make it to the bridge on a boat that served in the pacific in WW2 and here is where the captain ran many battles. It’s a poignant place to be.

Onto the Space Shuttle, gee this thing is big. Then the Concord, gee this is small. Everything is different in real life. Finally I find the big black plane I saw when I turned the corner, it is a black bird – a super sonic reconnaissance aircraft.

Time for a bit more walking now, down all the way to 34^th street and emergency stop in at B & H for more gear. Now on to Macy’s to check what this is all about. Nice, but it seems like a Myer’s on steroids I think I have something much more fun I can do. A quick call to Ricki and a plan is hatched.

Time to hop on the subway and head back uptown, dump my stuff and head over to meet Ricki. I find her building on Madison Ave and this is the flashest building I have seen so far. Walk in and the ultra modern foyer has artwork by Kaws, originally a street artist. Ricki arrives, chats to the security guard and whisks me upstairs to check out the reading room. This is actually the reception area to Mr Lauren’s office. It’s all wood paneling and modern art sculptures juxtaposed into something that is out of this world. Yes, I think I need to pinch myself. This is Ralph Lauren’s corporate head office. This is off the scale cool.

Now we head off back to Central Park, Ricki is taking me around a lake in the south east corner of the park and she has brought binoculars for both of us. First find is a Black Crowned Night Heron, then a great egret and some mallards. What’s that under the water, a red eared sliderturtle. Up around the top and some morning doves are feeding the grass. Done the hill what’s that orangy / yellow flash. It’s a Baltimore Oriole. Well, I’ll be I thought they where a baseball team! Next Ricki hears a Red Winged blackbird and then she finds it, eventually I do to. Amazing number of birds in such a small space. Now we cross over into Central Park Zoo and Ricki shows me the seals, an owl and the moving clock that even has kangaroo.

Thanks Ricki for turning my New York experience into something extra special. I hope we can return the favour in Sydney one day.

A photographers paradise

Getting creative

Looking from Brooklyn towards Empire
State Building through Washington Bridge 

He who must be obeyed

I like this place

Wall st area across the Hudson River

Jane's Carousel

Looking from Brooklyn Bridge

Crossing Brooklyn Bridge

It’s a beautiful Sunday morning and I am on a train going South. Look at all those confused tourists asking questions, that was me this time last week. Have I just jinxed myself by having that thought? No, all is well I make it to my destination, Brooklyn.

Up the steps from the subway and I am in a beautiful green park, a feeling of calm washes over me, its time to explore. Lots of tourists seem to be walking down, I assume that is towards the water so I head that way. What’s that, a bridge lined up perfectly in between the buildings. What, you can see the Empire State Building perfectly framed. Snap, snap, zoom, stand in middle of road, opps, there is a car, get off road, back on road. Snap, snap.

I am in Dumbo, a section of Brooklyn that once was full of big industrial factories now it is has a massive art and tech scene, even Etsy have their head office here.

Now I walk down the water for more photos of Washington Bridge, there is even a little beach so I put my hand in the Hudson River and conquer another part of the world. Along the boardwalk, around the streets, up lanes and down dales. Snapping away at the factories, bridges and street art. Did I not mention street art yet? One of the very first pieces I see is an Obey symbol. Lucky I wore my Obey tshirt today. A french tourist valiantly tries to get a photo of me in the t-shirt with the art on the wall, alas the lighting is all wrong and it is not to be.

Moving further along I go to the very end of the promenade for great views of Wall St area of the city across the water. There is even a blimp flying around behind the large buildings.

It’s a very hot day there are families and friends having fun in the sun everywhere, at one little girls party they are throwing water bombs at each other until it ends in tears.

Coming back along the promenade from another direction I come across Jane’s carousel, a merry-go-round. Time for action. I whip out two dollars in a flash, have my ticket and I am on my horse Trixy in record time. The music starts up, we start off slow and then gather speed. Then round and round we go with flashes of the Washington Bridge, Brooklyn Bridge, Hudson River and amused parents. Love it.

Lots more exploring and then I am at the stairs that lead to Brooklyn Bridge. Goodbye Brooklyn, hello tourist city. The bridge is packed, one side for bikes, one side for walkers. But lots of the tourists don’t get it and there is a lot of screaming, whistle blowing and swearing. The Bridge is 130 years old and suspended on cables, it’s a fascinating bit of engineering. Cars are roaring along below the pathway with the odd screech of breaks that makes everyone on the bridge jump. Finally I make the 1.7km hike unscathed.

What a lovely way to spend a sunny Sunday.

Lady of the night

Time to head a few blocks down 5^th avenue with the million other tourists to one of my favorite places, Rockefeller Centre. With tickets ready I am through security and ushered to the lift. This time I know what to expect but I still love it. The roof of the lift is clear glass and there are lights on every floor as we ascend it looks and sounds like we are going warp speed on the Starship Enterprise.

Right I made it, everyone is crowding around watching the sun go down. Then gradually it starts to happen, the light changes, Times Square gets brighter and then the World Trade Centre twinkles in the fading light. I wonder if that is intentional. But all eyes are on the Empire State Building. The colours mingle, the cameras snap and and a smart bunch of Indian guys are using their iPhone lights to illuminate faces to get better photos, this quickly catches on and everyone is doing it.

Eventually it is totally dark and for as far as the eye can see in every direction New York is an intricate maze of dazzling lights. A sight to be seen.

Grit and street art

Flatiron in the morning sunshine

Invadr

Highline

Typical building in the area

By GilfNYC an artist from Brooklyn

The Strand Bookstore

Down into the subway I go and emerge at 23^rd street at the iconic Flatiron building. Photo’s done, now its time to get moving I have a target in my sights, will I get it? I can tell I have come down from the rarified air of uptown as I walk along the street over post Friday night vomit, beer bottles and rubber gloves. 

Keep on going, one more block and yes I don’t even have to hunt for it, its there in plain view my first American Invader, and its one of his bigger pieces looking a little bit damaged now. Tick. Conveniently Invader placed his work close to steps for the Highline so up I go to escape the grottiness. The Highline is an old elevated railway track that has been converted into a garden, it’s a neat idea and glorious in the sun. Gives quite a different perspective of the old buildings and even glimpses of the Hudson River.

I get to the end of the Highline and there is market stalls. Yes, bracelets my favourite holiday shopping item. Hmm, which one will I have? The guy is very patient whilst I try them all on. Now I have a very unique souvenir of New York.

On to continue the leisurely street art hunt. A few good pieces, fire trucks running around and a teddy bear suspended from a rope in the air across an intersection. Is it art or a joke? There is another closed book store, am I ever going to find a bookstore in this city?

What’s that green ahead, my navigation must be working today. Its Washington Square Park. Once I get in it’s a curious mix of locals, tourists, hobos and a guy playing a piano. Time for an icecream, $3 thank you Mam. So formal. Now I am going to sit down in the shade and enjoy the music.

Onwards to shopping, lots of little funky shops intermingled with street art, Elizabeth St is my favourite. A new handbag and a few other things to be squashed into my luggage at some later date.

Ok time to get serious about finding a bookshop lets hop on the subway back to Union Square and head up Broadway to the Strand. Its getting very hot and being Saturday people are everywhere. Now this is a bookshop, 4 levels, starts with books about New York, then classics. This place is good, a true example of the saying, everything is bigger and better in America.

Back on the subway to home, let’s dump this stuff and get ready for tonight’s event. Do I wear the top of the rock sequined number or make art not war? Decisions, decisions.

Excess with style

Roosvelt Tram ride with Queensboro bridge

Outside Holly Golighty's flat
from Breakfast at Tiffany's

A room inside the Frick mansion

Now I understand the saying as busy as Grand Central Station

One of the many examples of art adorning
the buildings of the Rockerfeller Centre

Jeff Koons installation in progress at Rockfeller Centre,
this one is Dino and will be covered in flowers in a few weeks time

Me at Top of the Rock with
Empire State Building in background,
I did not want to leave

First order of business is to walk a few blocks down the road, then whip out the metrocard and swipe onto the Roosevelt tram for a journey across the water. We travel high above the water, alongside the Queensboro bridge with sunlit views of Manhattan. A very pleasant experience. Coming back is a different story its peak hour, the carriage is packed and there is barely enough room to breath. Someone I still manage to take photos over the top of some guys shoulder.

Now for a walk through the Upper East side to a very important location on 71^st street. The streets are lined with big blocks of flats pouring out people on their way to work. So this is where everyone lives. There is some guy standing on a street corner handing brochures. We have a little chat. He says, “I was born in New York, live in New York I want to represent the people of New York and the odd Australia tourist” I have met my first real live democrat.

Finally I am on the right street and thankfully there are about 10 old brownstone houses in amongst the masses of flats. Yes, it is still here. I have found the outside of Holly Golighty’s flat from Breakfast at Tiffany’s. I wonder if that nice lady wandering along the street will take photos for me. Yes, she will. Success.

Now that was all just a warm up to get to the Frick Museum when it opened at 10am. I like the look of this place from the outside an imposing 5^th Avenue mansion built by a family who made their money in steel. There are half a dozen people waiting out the front for the museum to open and a sign that says no children under 10. This feels like an exclusive club compared to all the other museums. The clock chimes 10 and we are in. I wander from room to room in awe of the art Clay Frick collected. A Vermeer here, Rembrandt there, a Renior tucked behind the staircase. Giovanni Bellini’s “The Ecstasy of St. Francis” stops me in my tracks. Then the audio guide tells me that Hans Holbein’s painting of St Thomas More will make you go weak at the knees and it really does. Clay Frick collected pictures that where pleasant to live with I am really glad he made lots of money in steel and then did something amazing with it. Amanda would love this place. With great reluctance I exit though the gift shop and leave.

Onto the subway and down to Grand Central train station. A quick shake shake burger to keep me going and the next tour starts. This is a pretty impressive space stuck in the middle of an amazing city. The guide tells us about all the interesting techniques the builders used to get people to walk faster when exiting by gradually narrowing the corridors or not lingering in a particular place by lowering the roof. But he does go on a lot, so once I learn we are not going to the whispering gallery, I bail out. Now can I find the gallery myself? I ask at the information desk, left, left, down the ramp. Hmm, which left. Then ask at another place. Then see a ramp and think I may as well try this one. Yes, it is it. Other tourists are here doing the same thing, there is noise and people everywhere. However if you stand on one side of the area and whisper into the wall. The person on the other side 20 metres away can hear you. Everyone is in fits of giggles, ok well maybe mainly me.

Now time to walk back up town, via library-massive, HBO shop-essential and New York Yacht Club, where they used to keep the Americas Cup till Australia won it and took it away! Finally I make it to my destination, the Rockerfeller Centre.

There are 19 buildings between 48^th and 51^st street that make up the Rockerfeller Centre, most built in the 30’s. Starting with the art and architecture tour, Jonathon explains the history behind the Rockerfellers and then takes us around to explore his favourite bits. Art deco is abundant, as well as politics and cooperation between countries. Most of these works are done between the two wars and peace is a strong theme. I can’t begin to explain the number of great ideas and works we see. Most I would not even have noticed if I was walking around by myself. The final part of the tour is in the plaza where the ice rink and famous tree are at Christmas time. What’s that big green thing in the middle, it’s a Jeff Koons installation in progress!

Thanks to Jan for recommending this tour, so worth it.

Now to get in the line and go to the very top of the Rockerfeller Centre, called Top of the Rock. Its quick and easy and I am here, Central Park is laid out in front of me, on the other side all the buildings of Manhattan with Empire State Building dominating the skyline. This is a perfect view. Time for a photo frenzy with all the other tourists. Now I find a ledge and sit in the shade and just soak up the changing light on all the buildings whilst the sun goes in and out behind the clouds. Reluctantly I have to leave my perch and head for home.

Must get sustenance, ready to collapse, not much on 5^th avenue except street vendors with big pretzels. I know I will go into the Shops at the Plaza and all is solved. What’s that a shop just for the Plaza, I go in and just can’t resist a little old fashioned book of essays on New York. I go to pay, would you like it gift wrapped Madam. Oh, yes please. Out comes the exquisite Plaza tissue paper, delicate wrapping ensues, followed by a gold embossed sticker. But wait there is more; the lovely guy is doing a total Mr. Bean. Now more tissue paper is waved in the air and folded to line the bag, then the bag is expanded with a flourish to the left and right and all is put together. It was worth buying a $10 book just for the experience of the gift wrapping, I think I will go back tomorrow and do that again.

A magical day finished with a flourish.