Books set in Malta

Malta is a rock 25km by 6km placed strategically in the middle of the Mediterranean. Over 1000’s of years it has been pillaged and plundered and survived. The strength of Malta is in the ability of the people to adapt to each situation. These books all resonate with the stories of life through the centuries.
My personal connection is that my Dad was born in Malta 80+ years ago. As a young boy he lived thorough WW2, then his family immigrated to Australia. My recent trip was my first experience of Malta and I will be back - its fascinating for history buffs, has that laid back Aussie beach feel and I have wonderful family there.

The Jukebox Queen of Malta by Nicholas Rinaldi

MY RATING: 3.5 of 5

During the sustained bombing of Malta in WW2 Rocco Raven arrives to work as a radio man for the US military. Nothing is as it seems in Malta, his boss, the bombs, the people. Everyone is attempting to make sense of the carnage. After a particularly bad bombing raid Rocco meets Melita and a romance develops. Rocco and Melita's past is revealed as the story moves along up and down the streets of Valletta and through every little village in Melita’s pink hearse. All the time I am wondering will they make it through the war.

This book exposes the underbelly of emotions when people are pushed to the limit of their endurance by death, depravation and destruction. I liked Rocco as a character he is sensitive, all the characters in the book are well developed from the airman surviving on their wits each day doing battle in the skies to the prostitutes looking for a way off the island. I found it hard to comprehend how people made it through the war. I did not find the book as enjoyable as other reviewers online as there certainly is a lot of agony going around, however it is a first rate story.

Death in Malta by Rosanne Dingli 

MY RATING: 3 of 5

Gregory Worthington is a writer that escapes to Malta to write a new book, he rents a house in a small village and quickly gets caught up in the past lives of the people who used to live in the house. The story focuses on the disappearance of a little boy many years ago.  Gregory’s growing obsession about the house and the little boy gradually unravels as Gregory’s life takes a turn for the better.
Written by an Australian, I really enjoyed the view point of the main character Gregory an Australian writer, experiencing life in Malta in the modern times. How the locals spoke, the beliefs and customs, compared to what we are used to. The book is a bit hard to follow at times with the writing changing from the first person to others and lots of unnecessary going backwards and forwards in the timeline on the same day. However overall I found it a good story and enjoyable.

The Kappillan of Malta by Nicholas Monserrat

MY RATING: 4.5 of 5

Father Salvatore is humble parish priest with a regular routine of rebuilding his church, looking after his flock and his weekly visits to his mother. All this changes early one morning as he is walking up the steps from Lascaris Wharf and the first bombs of WW2 are dropped. From here on Father Salvatore and his trusty side kicks Nero and Rafel help the poor, displaced and downright frightened struggle through.

The story effortlessly folds between the centuries of history with compassion and understanding. I cant say enough about this book, I loved it and will read it again. The book covers every bit of Maltese history to date, sensitively through the lens of WW2 and the current day. If you only read one book set in Malta this is my top pick. 

The Ship by C.S. Forester

MY RATING: 3.5 of 5

The Mediterranean is awash with the dangers during WW2. In this book the British Navy ship, HMS Artemis is escorting a British convey with essential supplies to Malta. They encounter the Italian Navy and the story closely follows the each step of the battle weaving in and out of the lives and roles of each of the men. The Sunday Times writes it up as ‘one of the most vivid accounts of a modern battle at sea ever written’.

To me Forester deftly demonstrates how a navy ship is the sum of all its parts and reliant on the men, that operate design and command. Published in 1943 the descriptive style might be a bit old fashioned for modern tastes, however I liked the emotion dripping from each page and gaining the understanding of what motivated each man internally. Based on the real life exploits of HMS Penelope, I would recommend for those enjoy naval stories. Forester is the author of many stories, including the Hornblower series and The African Queen.

Faith Hope and Charity by Kenneth Poolman

MY RATING: 3.5 of 5

This is the true story of Faith Hope and Charity, three planes that played a pivotal part in the siege of Malta during WW2. The biplanes where old and outdated but that did not stop them putting up a fight against the Italian airforce.

“We flew in on 7th June. It was like waking from a sweet dream into the heart of an earthquake. Scared? You never got time to be scared on Malta. What a show! Bombs whistling around your ears, Spits and Me’s weaving all over the sky, and once in a while some poor devil who hadn’t kept his tail clean spinning down in flames.”

First published in 1954 the book captures the efforts of the pilots, mechanics and military leaders, using every trick in the book to keep the planes in the air and making a difference to the overall outcome of WW2. Mussolini said he would take Malta in a day, how wrong can a man be. The tone is typical of its time and very poetic, this book is definitely one for air buffs to enjoy.

New copies of this book sell for $2,000+ alas my copy is from 1974 and was found in a long forgotten drawer in the family home. It is dog eared, musty and faded. There is an interesting blog post about the current state of the one surviving bi-planes, Faith and the efforts to restore her.

Sword and the Scimitar by David Ball

MY RATING: 4.5 of 5

Two ordinary maltese children, Maria and Nico end up leading extraordinary lives during the violent religious crusades of the 16th century. The book starts out when the youngest child, Nico is abducted by slavers from the cliffs of Malta. The story then spends 20 years around various ports of the Mediterranean, travels over to Paris, vividly captures the life of the knights in Malta and has a climatic ending with the Great Siege of 1565. It’s a hard book to put down.

Overall its an epic tale with romance, action and history all rolled in together. Delving into times I know so little about - turks, knights, Ottoman empire and Paris in the 16th century. The story delivers fascinating insights into these times. Both Nico and Maria became so real to me that during the great siege I even felt like I was fighting for my life.

New street art installation

Original location 

Mystery man prepping for reinstallation

Sneaking into new location

Where is this?

The final piece

The old Tooths brewery behind work has been gradually changed from a hole in the ground to shopping centre and apartment blocks over the last few years. The last piece of the puzzle of this gentrification of daggy old central is the removal of the wall along William Street, Chippendale. The wall had quite a few good street art pieces, by Will Coles. Unbeknownst to me Tash, a friend at work hassled the workmen for three days to secure this piece for me!

A big thanks to Tash for her never give up, I can do anything attitude to life!

Heading home

Can barely fit into my room to sleep

The annual hissy fit over packing

Sitting on the bag, helps, sort of

25 days of exploring and learning are over. Sob. Its time to suspend fantasy land and return to reality.

The current temperature in London is 35 degrees and I am sweating trying to get stuff shoved into my bags. Remind me again why Jane let me buy a floor mat and gum boots?

The 2015 treasure haul includes a rather modest 8 books, about 50 new items of clothing and a tonne of art postcards. We have done everything from shopping to sailing, visited roman villas and the Ritz, eaten cod and chips and currywurst. The number 1 treasure has to be needles medal for conquering the chairlift.

Happy to be going home to Stephen and Rosco, see most of you soon!

Tourists v’s posh

The Diamond Jubilee State Coach
made by Australia

At the Rtiz

Would you like me to pour your tea?

What do we eat first?

Everyone else is gone
but we are still lapping it up

Liberty, the mecca of posh people and tourists

It’s our last day of exploring so lets get going and make the most of it. Past the crowds at Buckingham Palace around the corner and into the Queens Gallery we go. It’s a cool respite from the sweltering heat of London. The queen has very kindly put on exhibition with the theme of gardens from the royal collection. Every painting is exquisite and Osborne House features quite a bit. Its funny how everything is linked in someway. The standard exit through the gift shop and onto the Royal Mews we go.

The Royal Mews is where the horses and carriages are stored and we arrive just as a guided tour is starting. It’s a truly fascinating place the big gold state coach is said to be so uncomfortable and sway so much that the head of the Admiratly said it was the roughest ride he has every had in his life after 40 years at sea. The best coach is the diamond jubilee state coach made in Australia it’s a wonderful blend of old and new, from a web cam in the crown to wood paneling in the doors made from every historical institution in Britain. Well done to the Aussies, even though it was 8 years late in being delivered.

We are all dressed up for our main event today and I have even attempted to tame my hair. We are having tea at The Ritz, cue giddy excitement. Do you have a booking, mam? Yes we do. We are seated in amongst the ferns and overall opulence that is the Ritz. Please take photos discreetly it says on the menu – we can do that. Would you like Rose or Brut champagne? Rose please and we are off, tea in massive silver pits, delicate sandwiches, cakes and best of all scones and a tub of clotted cream. Time to chat about what a big holiday we have had and all the crazy things that we have done.

Finally all the champagne is finished, everyone has left except for us and its time to move on. Out into the heat we go and meander down Piccadilly to find ourselves at Liberty. The mecca of all shoppers, a quick spin around the 250 pound scarves and then we get into the lift to go up to the oriental rugs. Two  twenty something men get in the lift and one comments, ‘I have never been into Liberty’, the other says ‘its only for posh people and tourists’. We can’t let that comment go by and it is quickly decided by all that I am the tourist and Jane is posh.

V for Victory

A British summer can be glorious 

Why don't the canyons Stephen takes me in have bridges?

Sad to be leaving the island
or scared of the train?

Spinnaker Tower in Portsmouth

HMS Victory, Lord Nelsons flag ship
(this is the real ship from 250 years ago not a replica)

Spot where Nelson was shot

Very daring, 100m in the air

Its another glorious day on the Isle of Wight, lets just fit one or two more ‘things’ in. A quick trip up to Brading, going around buses, driving in the middle of the road like locals, getting followed by Mercedes Man who thinks we know where we are going, only one wrong turn and we are here. At one of the largest Roman mosaics in UK. It’s Time Team on steroids. This has taken our journey back to the 1^st century.

Now we get back in the car and head back to Shanklin Chine. It’s a canyon that costs 4 pounds to enter. Bit strange for me, but a quaint Victorian tourist attraction from 1812. The most interesting bit is, Pluto, which is the pipeline under the sea. This pipeline carried petrol over the channel to the allies in WW2 and was the brainchild of Lord Mountbatten.

We try in vain to see a red squirrel, but no success. However I do see a woodpecker. This is pretty exciting, I would not have not known what a woodpecker was if Ricki had not shown me one in Central Park last year. The bobbing head is unmistakable.

Now to drop the car off, opps that’s a one way street, box around, left and right and we pull in with no dings and no dramas for a few days of zooming around. Very happy about that, my first attempt at driving out of Australia is a success.

Back onto the ancient, wobbly and noisy railway we go, onto the ferry and in no time we are back in Portsmouth and on the mainland. Goodbye Isle of Wight it’s been grand.

There is time to do a little more in Portsmouth, yeah. Quick as a flash I am off to HMS Victory, Lord Nelson's flagship at the Battle of Trafalgar. I love the sense of history in Britain this is the real ship from 250 years ago and I am standing in the exact spot where Nelson was shot.

Now its time to conquer more heights, the spinnaker tower. I hope there is a lift! Yes, there is, pay some money and 60 seconds later I am up the top. Wow, the whole Solent (the name for the stretch of water between mainland and Isle of Wight) is laid out before me. What a spectacular view. But there is one more challenge. Am I up to it? Of course I am, well maybe, yes, I must. Oh that really does look a bit high. Well I tell myself it cant be dangerous or they would not let me do it would they? Deep breath now and step. Right one more step and another, look down. Ohh, that’s a bit scary I am out in on a glass floor 100 metres above the ground! Lets get off the glass, take a breather now I am back out again and can get some shots. Gotta run now am late for my rendezvous with Jane.

Back to the meeting point and Jane has walked all over Portsmouth town centre, Southsea and Victoria Park. It’s time to head home.

Hooning around

Godshill

Jane likes a good tea room

Protecting the gate at Carisbrooke Castle

The Needles

We will do anything to get a photo

A medal to prove we went on the chairlift

Ventor, showing the type of roads we
 hooned around on

Its Sunday morning so lets go to church, to be precise Godshill church that is very old and built on a pagan ground. High on the hill in amongst thatched cottages in the early morning sun it is a gorgeous site. We only came here as everyone keeps telling us about the gigantic meringues in a nearby shop, they are now a distant memory. Back down we go and the shops have started to open, Jane goes into hyperventilation mode with all the crystals, our bags are going to be a lot heavier on the way back home.

Next stop is a detour to Carisbrooke Castle, this is where Charles I was imprisoned and tried to escape from, Beatrice (my fav of QV’s children) lived and about a zillion other bits of history happened. The best bit is getting to be a guard in the watch tower.

Back into Victoria we go and we are heading south, over dale, around sharp corners, over crests, more pushbikes to overtake but with Janes expert navigation we arrive. We are at the very point of island where a rock formation called The Needles, extends out into the water. Now I know what is coming next, but Jane doesn’t. Will she do or wont she. She says that is all ok, shes in. No need for champagne, let’s go on the chairlift. I am a worried about me getting on and off the contraption let alone Jane. But a big muscley guy throws us both into our seats and we are off. Now Jane realises just how scary this is and is hanging on for dear life with eyes shut. But after a few minutes realises it is all ok and then can enjoy the magnificent views. Sort of. Two muscly men to get us off at the bottom and we are done. Not sure Jane can actually stand, but before she can get her wits about her to say no we are on a boat and heading for the needles. The boat is calm respite from the chairlift adventure and a great way to see all the colours in the rocks up close. After about 1,000 photos each and exploring for fossils on the beach its time to head up. Would you like to walk up the steps or take the chairlift? No choice really. So back we get on and make it to the top and receive our medals for conquering the chair lift. How good is this!

Now we are going to take the long way back around the coast, I can even drive at the speed limit now. There are hardly any cars this way and we explore every little hamlet along the way. Some of the roads are so windy you hold your breath as you go around each corner. I would like to shut my eyes as well, but that’s probably not a good idea.

We pull up in Ventor and Jane finds the best place on the whole coast for a creamed tea, Queenies.

We finish the day with our biggest challenge yet, finding a petrol station.

We are amused

Our base camp

Shanklin Beach in morning sunshine

Walk to Queen Victorias private beach

Osbourne House

Jane in a photo snapping frenzy

View of yacht race from QV beach 

Giggling in the gardens

So proud that I drove!

Round the island race with thousands of yachts

Eleanora, one of the biggest yachts in the fleet

Its 4am and the birds have started twittering. Could they please wait and hour or two more as I am a tired tourist.  Snore. Time to get moving, a walk into the town and we now are the proud owners of a silver Skoda, who we quickly christen Victoria. Yes, I get to drive in another country, thankfully on the same side of the road as Oz.

Off we go along roads and over dales to our main destination, I have been calling this Queen Victoria’s Summer Palace. However I quickly learn it was a private residence named Osborne House and Victoria, Albert and all the 9 children and 41 grand children had a wonderful time here.

We explore around the house and start talking to the guides and learn a lot a few interesting tid bits are:

• Albert did most of the design for building, rooms and furnishing
• We stand in the room where Alexander Graham Bell showed Queen Victoria the telephone
• We both hone in on porcelain clock that was a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm, the eldest grandchild decorated with a painting of a palace we saw in Potsdam last week
• The nursery on the top floor is haunted by Prince Leopold
• Victoria and Albert where into co-working and had desks next to each other
• They loved dogs, statues and paintings are everywhere

From here we go on to visit the private beach, Swiss Cottage where the children learnt cooking and gardening and finally the walled garden. All in all this is an amazing place and I have a totally different opinion of Queen Victoria now after seeing her private residence and getting an insight into the life she and Albert purposely created for their family.

Back into the car and on we go to Cowes, its this way, no its that way. Well the map says we can go across the water at the end of the road. No we can’t it’s the ferry line to Southhampton. So back around the roads we go and make it to from East Cowes to Cowes.

Today is a big day in the yachting world with the round the island race, there are yachts and yachties everywhere. Modern sleek zillion dollar yachts, immaculately restored wooden yachts and little weekender yachts. Thousands of yachts are all finishing the race as we arrive. What that really big boat at the end? It’s the Eleanora a modern day replica of a 1910 boat. A chat to the crew reveals that they have 8 permanent sailors that sail the boat all year long for an unidentified American millionaire. Next stop for them is France, then Spain.

The Isle of Wight is the same size as Malta, a pretty freaky fact for the trip. The fastest boat in the race did it in 3.5 hours, the slowest is 10 hours. I would not want to be on the slow boat.

Time for some food, a beef and ale pie in a 400 year old pub is just what we need.