Saturday 10 November 2018

Beauties in the Bower

Male (black) and female Satin Bowerbird
at bower, near St Helens Park, NSW

In our local bushland, we see lots of flashes of black as male Satin Bowerbirds dart around. Stephen decided to investigate further and found a bower, under dense shrubs. This gave him an idea and back he came with his trusty go-pro to see if he could capture any action in the bower. Putting the go-pro out early in the morning and set to take a photo every 5 minutes we did not know what would happen. Back at home sifting through the photos. Success! Male, female and lots of dancing and prancing amongst a sea of blue.

The male builds the bower with sticks and then collects bright blue objects like pegs and bottle caps to decorate his masterpiece and attract a mate. Once a female arrives near the bower he will strut and flap his wings in a kind of dance, then sing, buzz and rattle all as part of the courtship routine.

On the third day of capturing photos, Stephen found another bower further down the track, bigger and even more decorated, a real Taj Mahal. So he ran back for the go pro and moved to the new bower. Later that day we saw the results, this male was very popular, he had up to 5 females vying for his attention.

Males that are popular will increase the noise and aggressiveness in their courtship routine to ensure that only the strongest females get the opportunity to mate with him. In the next phase of breeding the female is on her own and builds a nest up to 30 metres high. Our mission now is to find a nest location.

All in all, another amazing wildlife experience close to home.

Reference: https://australianmuseum.net.au/satin-bowerbird

I can dance and show you my 'blue bits' at the same time.
Pick me, pick me! 5 females vying for attention.

Another male and female Satin Bowerbird,
ready to do the deed?
Stephen figuring out the angles and
 positioning the gopro



Sunday 14 October 2018

Distance of Your Heart by Tracey Emin

Out of the countless newsletters that bombard my inbox from around the world, one stood out. Tracey Emin has an art installation in Sydney. What? Why? And it has birds?

Royal Academy Summer Exhibition, London, 2015
But let me backtrack, a few years ago I had no idea who Tracey Emin was. Then at my first Royal Academy Summer Exhibition in London, I asked the guard a question about the red dots on some of the paintings. Hearing my accent he realised I was a tourist and proceeded to take me on a little tour of the artworks in his room and explain some of the artists and their works. We ended up in a discussion of how can one work be priced at 100 pounds and others at 100,000 pounds. He then asked, had I seen what Tracey Emin had submitted this year? No. Who? ‘You ain’t see nothing yet, girl’. He looked around to check his room was ok and we scooted off to another room and he showed me a bit of scribble in pencil on a paper, it was meant to represent a bird. He explained that Tracey Emin was a well-known artist and member of the Royal Academy even awarded an OBE for her contribution to visual arts. His theory was she submits 'ordinary' works like this on purpose to send an ‘up yours’ message to the art establishment. My security guard friend looked like a crotchety old guy on the outside, but he was a font of knowledge.

Later that day my friend Jane filled me in on a few more details about Tracey, including her artworks with condoms and underwear. She is bagged and lauded by different sections of the art world and now that we were clued in Tracey popped up everywhere over the last few years.
An example of Emin in the UK press. From a collection of articles
 that Jane has posted to me over the years.
The installation was on my long to-do list but had not happened, the details I had were very vague as to where it actually was. Then we had our exciting birding weekend with Ricki. There was track maintenance on the line and we had to get off at a different train station get to Circular Quay, this took us through Macquarie Place and there it was ‘Distance of Your Heart’ the start of the installation. What a find! It seems poetic to be with a friend from the other side of the world, birding and discover this spot.

The start of the installation is a 'bird bath' in Macquarie Place, Sydney
Fast forward a few weeks and Stephen and I went back to discover more. Emin chose to start at an old obelisk that was used to measure road distances to places like Parramatta and Dubbo. She saw this as “…the perfect site to measure the distance of my heart”.

The installation represents how far Sydney is from the rest of the world and the loneliness felt by friends and family separated by distance around the globe. Emin believes birds are a great way to express this feeling and that's where the FUN begins, starting out a the park we spotted some birds around the benches and high on Thomas Mort (one of AMPs founders). Then across the road at the old sandstone lands department building, there are two more perched on one of the high ledges, heading up Bridge St there is another on a traffic light and more the Museum of Sydney, with real pigeons sitting beside them. This is great.

Emin designed and made all the bronze birds herself they are small and delicate. A hybrid species inspired by Australia's history of migration.

We travelled back down Bridge Street and all the way up Grosvenor Street to the Kent St underpass and found birds in all kinds of places. It was a fun treasure hunt. There are nearly 70 birds dotted around. Go find them!
High up on the Lands Department building, can you see them?

Down low at George St crossing

As my artwork I would like to make a counter site in Sydney for the young, the old, the backpackers, the tourists and the businessmen and women; somewhere else they can have their image taken to send back to the loved ones that they miss, that conveys the feelings of distance and homesickness.
– Tracey Emin, 2014

This installation makes me think about how the world is small and large at the same time. For many years Jane and I shared our 9-5 existence together in Sydney and now we are separated by a 24-hour plane ride. We connect between trips on skype to exchange stories and photos. Nowadays we all have it so much easier to stay connected with family and friends be that Ricki in New York or Angela in Malta. The Distance from your heart is an apt title, thanks Tracey! I have been converted and like you more and more as I start to understand your viewpoint.

City of Sydney // Tracey Emin 'The Distance Of Your Heart' from VERSUS on Vimeo.

Sunday 2 September 2018

All about the birds

Four years ago I met Ricki in Central Park, New York. I was on my way to The Met, she was on her way to work. This was the line in my blog post from that day:

“What is that lady doing down by the Hans Christian Anderson statue? Let’s go find out. I now have a new friend, Ricky and will tell you about her tomorrow if all works out as planned.”

Then this is the fun we had the next day:
Rambling with Ricki
Fast forward to now and it's our turn to return the favour.

Day 1 - Arrival

Ricki writing the first bird in the book
After months of anticipation, there she is walking out into Sydney terminal. We quickly unite and whisk Ricki back home to recover from 24+ hours of flying. It's a beautiful day so let's start with some sunshine in the backyard. Whilst I make tea and toast, Stephen and Ricki are already spotting birds, first on the list is a crested pigeon sitting in a nest in our backyard, then some noisy miners drop by, then Rainbow Lorrikeets decide to show off. It's all happening before the toast is even cooked. Eventually, binoculars and camera are put down and some sustenance is consumed.

Kookaburra
Within a few minutes, Stephen and Ricki are getting restless again and decide to go on a short walk to the oval. I hope we see a kookaburra. So off we go with Rosco in tow to see what we can discover. Sulpher Crested Cockatoos are screeching overhead, a big bunch of silvereyes are darting in and out of a conifer with so much to see it takes nearly an hour to walk the 15 min trip to the local oval. Finally, we make it and the kookaburras are nowhere to be seen.

As always happens let's just go a little bit further, a plan is hatched to go up onto the top oval and over to some other trees to look for the kookaburras, and lo and behold there they are. A kookaburra flys off and Stephen then spots a koala sitting in a tree, what a find!

Koala
Lots of photos and chats we are all full of energy now and we go on around the oval, to the bush at the back. The wattle is flowering, the birds are singing and its a glorious introduction for Ricki to Australian nature and wildlife.

Lots of birds join in the fun, even a tiny Spotted Pardalote dashes right in front of us and we manage to track it down with the binos and identify positively.

Eventually, we make it back home, our usual 1-hour walk took 5 hours, even Rosco is flagging now.

Day 2 - The Australian Botanical Gardens

Black-winged Stilt
After much deliberation, we have decided to take Ricki to one of our favourite birding places The Australian Botanical Garden at Mt Annan. It's cold and cloudy but not raining, so starting at the lake we see lots of water birds.

Heading up to the hidden lake we find an assortment including one of my favourites a Royal Spoonbill. Eagle eyed Ricki spots some brownish bird along the lake edge that we can't make out, Stephen does the stealth thing and moves up closer hidden behind the trees for a photo. After much deliberation, we are delighted to have found something new for us, a Buff Banded Rail.

Ricki trying out Vegemite
Onwards we go parrots, lorikeets and finches all participate in the adventure and join in on the fun. Swallows dart around and just get me plain confused as to what one is what. Wallabies pop out under the grey skies so thats another first for Ricki. Eventually, it's time for a spot of lunch, a lovely picnic table by the main lake will do. Ricki does not know what treats we have in store for her, but she is game for anything local and quite keen. So let's bring out the distinctive yellow jar of Vegemite.

Ricki and Stephen at Connections Garden
Ricki is the first overseas tourist we have ever met that likes Vegemite, she creates an avocado and vegemite roll. Much to the delight of the butcher bird who bludges a little bit of lunch from everyone.

Time to move on an explore the connections garden and give Ricki a taste of the different terrains in Australia and some weird plants like kangaroo paws and the famous dinosaur plant, the Wollemi Pine. The signature spring paper daises are even out with some new bee sculptures.

It's raining quite a bit now and cold, so time to head for home. But the fun does not end there with 5 birding books, two apps and the help of the Australian Bird Identification group on Facebook we have a gleeful time identifying our two mystery birds (that Stephen thankfully caught on camera) and verifying our list for the day. Ricki is an expert at nutting out all the little details between resources and reality.

After a lovely dinner out (thanks, Ricki) we settle back at home to share some more Australian culture and watch the movie Red Dog. We know how to party.

Day 3 - South Coast

Kiama Coast Walk
Today lets venture further afield and head for the coast. Starting at Wollongong lighthouse we check out the beaches stretching down the coast and spot some seabirds. A few more spots along the coast, a few more birds and we make it to Lake Illawarra.

Driving along, STOP, screeeech, what? Correllas in the schoolyard! Reverse, Ricki is nearly out of the car before we even stop. They are long-bills. Tick. Another cool bird. Finally at our chosen spot on the lake and YES, the shoreline is packed with all kinds of birds. My favourite has to be the Eastern Curlew. This bird fly's thousands of miles from Russia each year to hang out in Australia for the summer. They have just arrived in time for Ricki's trip.

Walking along the edge of the lake we spot many birds, big and small. The biggest being our unique Black Swan.
Eastern Curlew, recently arrived from Russia

Day 4 - Sydney city

Happy tourists at the Sydney Opera House
It was time to head to the city and check out some tourist sites. First stop is Circular Quay and the walkway along the top for a good view of the harbour and the bridge. Selfie stick ready? Smile. Snap. Moving on, Opera House. Snap. It's really nippy in the city today, but that's not going to slow us down. Let's go right out to the end of the Opera House and see if the seal is there. Alas no seal today, around the other side we go and there is a darter hanging out on a pylon. Time to explore the Royal Botanical Gardens.

Royal Botanical Gardens 
The birds in here are so much tamer and Ricki is off getting shots of Kookaburras and other natives. Tucked into one of the small ponds Stephen finds a new bird, a chestnut teal. We drag Ricki away from the Rainbow Lorikeets looking cute in a tree hollow and that's another one for the list.

Exit through the gift shop and eventually its time to leave. Let's take the top exit and visit Trim. Ricki's cat at home would love to know his story.  Trim was an adventurous cat that accompanied Matthew Flinders on his journeys circumnavigating the world and exploring the coastline of Australia. He even stayed with Flinders whilst he was in captivity in Mauritius, alas that is where Trim met his end and was assumed to have been eaten by another prisoner.

Finally, it's time to wave goodbye, sob, sob. Till next time!

Ricki reviewing the final list
In summary, we found 78 bird species, spotted a koala in Campbelltown within hours of Ricki getting off the plane, took her the furthest south she has been in the world (Kiama just beating Buenos Aires) and got her addicted to Vegemite and avocado sandwiches. An amazing experience, all from a chance encounter!

Wednesday 11 July 2018

Its coming home

Billy Connely mural

Love Hairy Coo's

A significant day, pulling down the shell of
Glasgow School of Arts

Mackintosh at the Willow

Mackintosh at the Willow

Deep fired Mars Bar going in, 2 mins to cook

The lovely lady serving up

The first bite of deep fried mars bar

Farewell antics at Glasgow Airport
Its coming home, its coming home is the chant that is reverberating through the UK this morning. I don’t think they are focusing on my journey home but a little thing called a football match (World Cup semi-final England v’s Croatia) that is preoccupying the nation.

Down to reception for a wee chat, would we be able to check out later today? Aye, thats not a problem. Score, now we have the day to get things done and pack.

I am off down the street for some murals and a visit to the Gallery of Modern Art, Jane is up the cathedral and necropolis area. With a plan to meet outside Mackintosh at the Willows for lunch.

Its 10 mins before its time to meet Jane and I have legged uphill to Sauchiehall Street, if I just go a bit further, hmm, another roadblock, down a smelly lane, up an alley. Yes, today is the day the crane is in and they are knocking down the iconic Glasgow School of Arts building after the second devastating fire. A bit of history is going before my eyes, but the good news is they plan to remove and preserve the original top of the building to be used in the rebuild.

There are many theories running around Glasgow as to the source of the fire (coincidentally on the 150th anniversary of the architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s birth). It will be very interesting to see what the investigators conclude.

Our lunch spot is Mackintosh on Willow, this is the original tea rooms rebuilt and they have only just opened. Lucky we could get in today to road test. Everything is delicious, a perfect last meal for the Outlander Odyssey with cake. 

Ok, well the truth is Jane thinks I am going back to pack and it is the end but little does she know I have one last thing on my Scotland list, a deep fried mars bar. They are supposed to have been invented in Scotland, specifically Glasgow but according to many locals, we meet it is a bit of a myth and one even thinks they originated in New Zealand. Ever since I saw the shop on Monday Jane has been vehemently opposed to me getting one as she thinks she will have to take me to a hospital with food poisoning if I eat one. So sans Jane in I go, aye love, 2 pounds 50, please. Done. Aye. Out from the fridge comes the Mars Bar, dip in batter and two minutes later I have the hot delicacy in my hand. What to do now? Ok, here it goes, cringe, bite, yep, batter and mars bar pretty much as expected. Revolting but doable. Better than Irn-Bru I say.

Now we are through security at Glasgow Airport and into shops. A loud cheer goes, up England has scored a goal! Are they English or Scottish cheering? I want to know most Scottish say they will not cheer for England, but they are starting to get caught up in the fun of it all. 

Bye Jane. Sob. HELLO Sydney I am on my way!


Tuesday 10 July 2018

Checking out Chaz and gang


Descending into the Glasgow subway

The train, so cute and short

Entrance with big organ to
Kelingrove Museum and Art Gallery

According to the museum
Haggis is made from this animal

Christ of Saint John of the Cross

Anna Pavlova dancing

Charles Rennie Mackintosh mural 
We walked through Glasgow University to get
to the Mackintosh House



Back at the Willow Tea Rooms,
the lady must think we are her
best customers this week as she gave
us both a small gift today

Bagpipe boy busking,
he was raking in the cash
One thing I enjoy doing in a new city is trying out the transport options, Glasgow’s subway runs in a circle around the city with 15 stations and is the third oldest in the world after London and Budapest. It only takes moments to get a ticket and be on the correct platform. Lets stand-in the middle to figure out which way the train will come from. Rumble, rumble, the train is tiny and only aobut 50 metres long, quaint would be my description. But the cutest thing is the driver who has to stick his head out the window to check all is clear and leave the station. 

An interesting bit of Glaswegian culture is the subcrawl, just like a pub crawl you get off at each station and have a drink at the closest pub. We have another type of venue in mind, in no time we are here, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Now we are running up the steps, nothing gets us more excited than a new gallery. Deep breath, enter, wow, thats an impressive start, another deep breath lets practice JOMO not FOMO and on we go.

Some highlights include:
The most interesting story was about the La Faruk Madonna an altarpiece painted by an Italian artist for a mud chapel in a POW camp in WW2. When the camp was disbanded the pairings were given to the British commander with gratitude for his fair and just treatment of the prisoners.

Overall summary, a trip to Glasgow is worth it for this museum alone!

Moving onto the Mackintosh house, the security guard immediately picks the Aussie accent and shares the story that his grandfather was an ANZAC at Gallipoli, who met his grandmother at a tea dance at the Ritz in London, After the war, he came back to Australia and qualified as a doctor then back to London to marry. His son ended up in Scotland and today we met the grandson, I like these links all over the world.

Glasgow’s favourite son is definitely Charles Rennie Mackintosh. He is an architect and designer that worked in s style we both really like, Art Nouveau. This style its very decorative and includes curved lines of plants and flowers. I think it is a bit unfair that Chaz gets all the attention as his wife, Margaret, her sister, Frances and many others did amazing work.

We visit lots of his work including Glasgow School of Art (unfortunately a burnt out shell about to be demolished) the Mackintosh house is a full-sized replica of Charles and Margaret's house, with the original furniture. Amazing that someone had the hindsight in the 60’s to pack up the contents and store them when the original building was demolished.

Back to the Willow Tea Rooms I will try Scottish Blend tea today, thanks hmm, and maybe I could fit in a Strawberry Tart. A fitting way to end another great day.

Monday 9 July 2018

Dear Green Place

Fresh as a daisy at the start of the day
at Willow Tea Rooms

Willow Tea Rooms

Having fun at Willow Tea Rooms

Wellington Statue that always has at
least one traffic cone on the top.
This has been going on for years and the council
has finally given up removing the cone
(saving 10k per year)

George Square

St Mumro my fav piece

Rocco the friendly coffee guy
in a repurposed Tardis

A good example of the Glasgow Charm
saying remember to look up not down.

Marble staircase in the City Chambers (it was closed
when we got here but the nice security guard let us in
for a quick look)

Happy tourists at the end of a long sunny day
in Glasgow

This mural is called Wind Power,
happy to report Scotland is
very into renewable energy with
lots of wind farms

Back into civilisation and the BBC morning news is on the TV, England is still in the grips of the weirdest summer ever, 30+ degrees everyday and world cup fever is intense with England making the semi-finals. All the talk is about how much the flights to Russia cost. It seems like half the country is going to the match on Wednesday night. Scotland, of course, wants to ignore anything English, but its even creeping in here.

Every day this trip Jane has been wanting Scottish Porridge for breakfast so today is the day. Willow Tea Rooms is the chosen venue, its a bit of an institution in Glasgow. Modelled after the original tea rooms designed by Mrs Cranston and Charles Rennie Mackintosh (famous architect / designer we will be focussing on more tomorrow). Everything is just perfect I could get used to the lifestyle.

Next up we are on a walking tour (highly recommended) some highlights included learning about:

  • the fascinating legend of St Mungo, his miracles and how they are interpreted on Glasgow's coat of arms
  • how the Tobacco Lords from America used Glasgow as a base in the UK and built homes in the 1700’s so big they are now used as museums
  • a long tradition of shipbuilding, with 1/5 of the world's ships being made here during the early 1900s

But of course for me, I just go into overload with any street art and my favourite piece so far is St. Mungo (of course having two birds helps). The artist is Smug, who is an Australian who lives in Glasgow.

Every time we see a new statue Jean our guide tells us who it is, explains they had nothing to do with Glasgow, however, it was the first statue to Walter Scott etc in the world. All I can assume is those tobacco lords had a lot of money and really wanted to put Glasgow on the map.

Dr Who is another big feature here, with real police boxes to keep me snapping, one is Rocco’s coffee shop (who poses for photos) and the other with a bearded hippy who sells hemp oil.

Time to move on and rest our feet with a ride on the hop on hop off bus in this glorious sunshine. Seats up the top, ready, go, oh-oh the commentator is Glaswegian, the accent in Glasgow is super strong to my ears and I am really struggling to understand what any of the locals say.

There is only a splattering of tourists here in Glasgow and most of the locals are really suffering from the heat, last week they had 6 days of over 30-degree temperatures (think Sydney with 6 days of 40+ temperatures) plus they have no or little air-conditioning.

One last tourist spot, The Lighthouse an old newspaper building that has been turned into a design centre. There is a problem with the lifts and we meet the lift mechanic who lived in Canberra for 2 years and loves Australia, especially Manly Beach. His other claim to fame is when this building opened he had to take the Queen up to top floor viewing platform and now he escorts us. Glasgow is really rolling out the red carpet for us.

Overall first day impressions of Glasgow, its a mix of old buildings in local red sandstone, some restored, some falling down and a few modern buildings. The street art murals and flowers really add visual spice to the city.  Gentrification is underway, seems like it started with the Commonwealth Games in 2014. I agree with the marketing, people make Glasgow, they are very friendly and down to earth (when you can understand what they are saying).

The sunshine goes on and on, it's so bright and still light at 10pm a tourist could go on forever, but now its time to sleep.

NB. The title for this post 'Dear Green Place' is Gaelic for Glasgow.