Friday 14 April 2017

Meeting a maiko

Philosopher’s Path


My creation

The workbench

Streets of Gion are full of
interesting sights

Everyone was enjoying the sun today


This is how close we are

Captivating dance

My new friend, Hinayu

Off to her next appointment

Bye, bye Kyoto
Time to get going before the crowds descend on Philosopher’s Path. The path is alongside a canal and gets its name from Nishida Kitaro, one of Japan's most famous philosophers, who was said to practice meditation while walking this route on his daily commute to Kyoto University. Today it should be called photographers path as the only people out early are the ones with big cameras doing some serious photography. The sakura (cherry blossoms) are outstanding. This was the number one thing I wanted to do in Kyoto. Glad I made the effort to get up here early today. 

Now as with all my days I have a plan. Next is to try out a traditional Japanese craft, wood block printing. It's down this way, hmm, that's the big shrine. Think I am on the wrong side - ask google, yep. Box around and I am here. Before I know it I have an apron on and am splashing colour and trying ever so hard to line up the registration lines. 6 stages for each print and ‘ta da’ I am the proud creator of two woodblock prints.

Back out into the sunshine and it is glorious, boats are cruising on the canals, families are picnicking this really is a great time to visit. Such a special time for the locals, I have learnt that celebrating this time of year is ingrained in all Japanese. Sakura time is often linked with new beginnings, the school year, starting university or a new job. 

A detour into the craft centre, nice but not setting the world on fire. Melinda Heal’s textile work inspired by Australian nature using and adapting traditional Japanese techniques is so much better (she is the daughter of a ex-NZI friend). I can though understand how her training her in Kyoto would have been very disciplined. No one does anything in Japan by halves.

Now my meandering, sun-drenched path is taking me past more shrines, how many are there in this city? Back up into the madhouse of the little streets of Gion (that we visited on Tuesday in the rain) and hook up with the tour gang.

The next bit of the tour we are all excited about and have been waiting in anticipation for a long time. We are going to meet a real Maiko, that's an apprentice Geiko (what Geisha are called in Kyoto). Ken leads us down a back street, we enter, and she is there sitting so demurely waiting for us. Shoes off, get a grip Catherine don't fall over in front of the maiko. In we are ushered to sit, ask questions and chat. Heinuo clearly loves her job, plus learning about music, dancing and making tea. She knows about Australia as has visited Brisbane with Japanese tourism. Thinks it is hot there! She then does a dance for the season, she is so tiny and moves like a butterfly with kimono flowing. Such precise moves, I am in a trance. More chatting, then photos all round and everyone is star struck. Did that just happen?

Our final dinner together is in a restaurant that specialises in Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki, we have our own room and pots in the centre to cook. It's the traditional tatami mats but with an innovation, under the table is empty so we are sitting on the floor but our legs are in a well, much easier on the knees. We meet Mike who runs Samurai Tours, at first he is a bit standoffish but eventually gets into the conversation and shares some insights about Japan.

The illuminations (lit cherry trees) are nearby so Gail and I set off like intrepid explorers to find them. I make a few wrong turns but eventually, we make it to the Tower of Yasaka and then onto Kodajii Temple that has the garden all lit, a vivid-style festival in the zen garden and an amazing bamboo forest. It is so good we go back to Kyoto station to celebrate with a cup of tea and cake. Party animals right to the end. It's such a warm night everyone is out enjoying themselves. Bye, bye Kyoto I will miss you.

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